Which gaskets to check?

[Smellii]

Ok, so I overfilled it with oil (newb mistake) when I first got it and now at least my valve cover gasket is compromised. It's time to replace it (cutting my own, ewwww) but which other gaskets and components should I check while I'm at it? Thanks.

[Steve]

I am still trying to comprehend why a higher oil level would make your valve cover gasket leak?

Unless you put in about 4 or 5 GALLONS of oil and completely filled the inside of the crankcase, the valve cover is only going to see the oil that is pumped there to lubricate the cam and lifters. Unless you completely flood the engine or run it dry, you will see the same amount of oil at the top.

Which other gaskets should you check? The ones that appear to be leaking, of course.

Over-filling the oil did not "cause" any leaks, there were already there.

How did you over-fill it? The most common way is to leave the bike on the SIDE stand and add oil until you see it in the sight glass.
As you probably now know, you should have the bike on the CENTER stand.

If you are adding oil after an oil and filter change, just dump in 4 quarts and call it good.

Oh, one more question: why cut your own gasket? You can get a new one for $8.30 from Z1 Enterprises.
Just make sure you get the right gasket. Some time during the '82 model year, they changed the cover (and gasket) from 16 bolts to 19.


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[Smellii]

Hey, Steve. I went to the repair shop cuz they owed me a valve cover gasket which the sold the previous week but I didn't push the issue cuz they only charged me half the hours on a previous job they did. Anyway, he told me too much oil creates too much pressure and will compromise gaskets. I overfilled it by measuring for the specified amount from the repair manual but didn't account for residual oil in the motor -lesson learned.

[Octain]

Oh boy.. I'm with Steve on this one. Unless you put several gallons in it wont create pressure enough to blow any gaskets. Tell your tech/shop fella he dont know what he's talking about.
Do you have any leaks?

[Smellii]

yeah, my valve cover gasket leaks pretty bad. maybe an ounce a day if I ride a lot.

[keman]

New gaskets are cheap and available. While cutting your own can be a fun challenge, it may not give you a good result.
Knowing these bikes, you might want to invest in a complete gasket set for your bike since it is very common to have the need to open up other parts as you do your repairs.

[hampshirehog]

Another one here - your bike has a really low pressure oil system and a leak from the cam cover is due to splash more than pressure.

I'll disagree with Keman though. At this stage I wouldn't buy a full gasket kit just because the cam cover gasket is leaking. Granted you might need one later....but then again you might not.

[JEEPRUSTY]

If it is leaking it may be due to stripped bolt not fully clamping the valve cover down.

mating surfaces have to be completely clean or oil will always get past them.

I use lacquer thinner to remove all oil from the joint then assemble.

[Smellii]

Finished for now. When I went to remove the cover I noticed several of the bolts were only finger tight which I deduce they weren't torqued correctly (grr). I removed the gasket, cleaned it and the related surfaces & put it all back together. Going to clean up all the dripped oil and take it out and see what happens. Thanks for your input guys, saved me from cutting my own gasket...for now.

[GateKeeper]

Since you did lose oil in all of this, make sure you check it and make sure your now running low

[mike_of_bbg]

Yeah that quart overfull thing is nonsense.

The valve cover gasket is not one I think I'd go after on my own. They're pretty slender and delicate. But perhaps that's just me. Since you have one of the larger 4's, the tach gear goes into the head and not the valve cover, so a Real Gasket is a good choice. They're flexible gaskets designed for re-use, though you can also do pretty well just greasing a paper gasket. Real Gaskets are thicker than stock so on the bikes (like my 550) with the tach gear going into the valve cover, the tach clearance with the cam is off and it will result in oddness/damage.

Hmmm... a whole gasket set? Think I'd pass unless you like to spend money on all your "just in case" needs. Most of the money on the gasket sets is for the head gasket. If you need to remove side covers those gaskets are usually just a few bucks; and the side cover gaskets are ones that I would make on my own. No fooling around with head or base gaskets (especially base gaskets, which are still available new and cheap): buy OEM if at all possible.

[Smellii]

Dodged a bullet this time. Oil level stayed full and is dry as a bone after being on the freeway. Hopefully no puddles in the morning. Reused the "old" gasket with some rtv around the end seals. I think the shop forgot to torque it down. Lesson learned: Always double check the "professional's" work when you get it back.

[7981GS]

Dodged a bullet this time.
I think the shop forgot to torque it down.
Lesson learned: Always double check the "professional's" work when you get it back.

Why would anyone do that?
When I posted to torque them down in an earlier thread this year,
the majority said that they don't use one on those bolts.
When you are torquing steel bolts into aluminum, it is critical to use a good quality torque wrench.
Not a worth-less beam-type guesstimator.
How on Earth can you guess between 6 and 8 foot-pounds of torque without stripping the head?


Daniel

[Smellii]

amen brutha

[Steve]

Since you have one of the larger 4's, the tach gear goes into the head and not the valve cover, ...

Not necessarily so, there, Mr. Mike.

The 1100E also has the tach drive in the valve cover. I think the 750E does, too. In fact, it might be ALL the 16-valve engines. :0-k

I think the shop forgot to torque it down. Lesson learned: Always double check the "professional's" work when you get it back.

Maybe now you are starting to believe us when we say that the BEST person to work on your bike is ... YOU.

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