Nasty stuff, ugly too!
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Gaskets VS. RTV
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Originally posted by Allie View Post
Nasty stuff, ugly too!sigpic
82 GS850
78 GS1000
04 HD Fatboy
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..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|
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DCrippa
Originally posted by bakirkwold View Post
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35644
- Torrance, CA
I also recommend getting a proper gasket, but wanted to say that lots of OE automotive engines are built without gaskets at all - they use RTV instead. The type of RTV used is formulated for gasket replacement, not for gasket supplementation. This type of RTV is much stronger and any that oozes out won't chunk off and plug up your engine the way common auto parts store silicone RTV will. This kind of RTV will really glue your engine cover down though and make it difficult to remove next time. It's best to use gaskets on GS engines to avoid future servicing problems.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostI also recommend getting a proper gasket, but wanted to say that lots of OE automotive engines are built without gaskets at all - they use RTV instead. The type of RTV used is formulated for gasket replacement, not for gasket supplementation. This type of RTV is much stronger and any that oozes out won't chunk off and plug up your engine the way common auto parts store silicone RTV will. This kind of RTV will really glue your engine cover down though and make it difficult to remove next time. It's best to use gaskets on GS engines to avoid future servicing problems.
But then, they have insurance if they do it wrong1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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JEEPRUSTY
I would imagine that anything that is used to seal a joint is a gasket.
Ahem!
Its the clear bathroom sealant that I find to be most beneficial.
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BassCliff
Hi,
There's a gasket fabrication guide on my little website if you care to have a look. It's not hard.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Normk
Terminology can get one into many problems. Talk to techs in one area and they'll refer to silicone rubber gasket material as "silicone" but in another "RTV". The professionals use automotive grade silicone rubber products made by companies such as Permatex and never bathtub grade silicone. Different formulation, intended for different environments.
The main problem with silicone rubber products is that amateurs don't think when they apply the material and so end up with a poor seal, excess squeezing into the interior as some have mentioned, use products which are not compatable with the fluids, and fail to consider the clearance issues.
The old GS engines are intended to use paper gaskets for many areas and the machining reflects this factor. Some engines use rubber sealing or "O" rings which are intended to accomodate wider tolerances. You may be successful in using a silicone rubber product for areas such as a cover but, as someone mentioned, this needs be prepared so that the silicone doesn't bond the areas or problems can occur when attempting to disassemble.
A very important consideration is clearance. If the designers intended there to be the additional spacing of the gasket behind the cover and a silicone, anerobic or other preparation is used instead, there may be interference in the parts. We used to see various problems from people using silicone to replace gaskets for this reason.
You can cut gaskets very efficiently with the use of tracing, sharp cutters and punches but, given the cost of gasket material and the various thicknesses required, why not simply buy a kit?
Yes, you can cut many engine gaskets from heavy paper or a file folder but that material is permeable and may weep oil over time. I did this to get a Honda outboard going in Vanuatu but it wouldn't be the choice here.
Do everyone a favor, especially the next person to pull it apart and either use the correct gaskets or at least use a release compound on one surface.
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TheCafeKid
Actually a lot of newer-ish bikes and ATVs seal the valve cover/rocker cover with RTv or the like because the rockers are built into the cover itself. Using a gasket here would create issues in setting tappet clearances when aftermarket gaskets whose tooling isn't as precise as required or over-torqued bolts squish the gasket could occur.
Frankly i hate the stuff, but on the two yammie ATVs I worked on recently, that's what they call for so that is what i used.
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john82q
RTV,
An old coot once showed me a technique you can still read about on the dow corning tube, which I used to use on agriculteral machinery to great effect.
you apply a thin neat bead less than 2 mm thick to the case with no gaps or high pieces,and leave it to cure. when the silcone is about 90% cured assemble the case, finger tight, and torque it down when its fully cured.
This will not stick the cases together, and largly eliminates the squish problem.
I would'nt do that to my bike, but a option is options.
RTV and JB weld have saved my arse in the desert more than one time.
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FiremanBob
The purpose of RTV is to make it easy for used-vehicle buyers to identify "run away, not walk" bad deals.
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Normk
The reference to loose silicone globs in the engine reminds of working on KLR650's. They collect huge amounts of silicone rubber globs from the original factory assembly. The oil pump pick-up screen is cup shaped and often filled with globs but it never seems to affect oil supply despite that people have a "cow" when they open the engine for the first time.
The concern regarding silicone rubber gasket material entering and blocking an oil gallery is over stated but, as the supporters of the concern will correctly state, "It only needs to happen once in your engine!".
John's method of applying a thin bead which is allowed to cure in place before assembly is the correct one for use on steel valve covers and parts of this nature where it is intended to replace a gasket. This type of application will often out perform a conventional gasket as he inferred.
This procedure will not be the appropriate one when dealing with valve covers of the type referenced by "Cafekid" as it will serve to space the covers out from the intended location.
OEM manufacturers use silicone rubber and anaerobic sealants in factory assembly because they are more effective than the alternative. To suggest that it is because they are cutting corners is unsupportable.
One needs think through any gasket application, especially where one intends to modify the original design. Having silicone gasket material squeezing out of the joins in large amounts simply indicates poor workmanship.
I can reference direct contact with hundreds of very competent technicians who use gaskets and various sealants routinely every day to excellent effect. As with other options, good decisions are needed.
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Normk
Silicone RTV is usually a poor choice for use in gasoline environments because gasoline causes most blends to break down very quickly.
Originally posted by 1_v8_merc View PostRTV is great stuff. I've made side cover gaskets, covered oil leaks and gas leaks.
If it's done right, it will last very long.
But at some point it's a good idea to just get a gasket.
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