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**tkent02** · 02-10-2012, 09:34 PM

Adjust the valves. Then adjust the carburetors.

**Defore** · 02-10-2012, 09:54 PM

Ok thats what Im thinking. Theres a local shop here in gainesville thatll do it for $80. I went in and spoke with him today. He has 70s, 80s and racing bikes at his shop and a hayabusa on the dyno that hes putting a turbo on. Hes so far told me how to do everything from carbs to valves and Ive yet to spend a dollar with him. He'll also sync my carbs for $40. Is this a good deal for valves and to sync the carbs? I mean how much do shims cost?

**mike_of_bbg** · 02-10-2012, 11:06 PM

Yes, check/adjust your valves. I'd suggest doing it yourself. There's a great guide on BassCliff's site.

When you put your carbs back together, did you bench sync them? The sync is not the idle screws (the ones set to 2-1/2 turns out), but the adjustment of the butterflies to each other: the screws with lock nuts between the carbs. If your carbs are way out of sync you may have butterflies way too open or closed. To bench sync, use a light to shine through the carbs and get the butterflies so they are all just BARELY, and evenly, open.

That it won't start with the pods on sounds like it's very rich. Having to open the throttle wide and that it runs better almost out of gas point that way, too. But then, if you're running on one cylinder only you'll have to push it hard to keep it going, too. Are you applying choke when trying to start it?

Oh, yeah, and with cold engine and not WOT those compression numbers are useless.

**Steve** · 02-11-2012, 12:06 AM

Because it runs better as it is running out of gas, I am wondering if maybe your floats are too high?

If you set them to a value lower than the 22.4 mm specified, the fuel level will be higher and the carbs will run richer.

What mike_of_bbg was saying about bench sync ... here is what you are looking for:

The adjustment to synchronizee the carbs is that screw and locknut assembly just left of dead center in the picture.

Watch the sliver of light under the butterflies as you turn the sync screw.

.

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**1948man** · 02-11-2012, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by Defore View Post

Ok thats what Im thinking. Theres a local shop here in gainesville thatll do it for $80. I went in and spoke with him today. He has 70s, 80s and racing bikes at his shop and a hayabusa on the dyno that hes putting a turbo on. Hes so far told me how to do everything from carbs to valves and Ive yet to spend a dollar with him. He'll also sync my carbs for $40. Is this a good deal for valves and to sync the carbs? I mean how much do shims cost?

Just curious, which shop? Roland Stuart?? Never been there but I hear he's good if you can't do it yourself.

**Defore** · 02-13-2012, 06:04 PM

Originally posted by 1948man View Post

Just curious, which shop? Roland Stuart?? Never been there but I hear he's good if you can't do it yourself.

I'm in Gainesville Florida and the shop is pep motor. He's awesome always answering questions and never asks me to bring it in 1st.

But yea ill adjust the screws so there a little open I thought they were suppose to be closed.

**Defore** · 02-13-2012, 06:32 PM

OK i just tried to check the valve clearance with my feeler but it only went down too. 008 (.203mm)and it was to tight to fit that. Shouldn't it be .03-.08?

**hampshirehog** · 02-13-2012, 06:42 PM

Yep - too tight. Needs a shim replacing on that one.

$80 seems a good price to me to do a valve clearance check. The shop could easily lose an hour cleaning off a stuck and busted cam cover gasket.

**Defore** · 02-13-2012, 07:39 PM

Lol yea except all of them r that tight. I just grabbed a feeler that goes to .0015 so if this doesn't work I'm screwed. But yea I asked what it charge me if i came up there with the valve cover off and to have all the shims done and $80 to was. How expensive are shims btw?

**Defore** · 02-13-2012, 08:03 PM

Ok bad news...I think. I just tried to start off with the smallest one (.0015) which in mm is (.038) aaaaand didnt even try to slide in. The shim will spin but still theres oil covering the two metals so of course they spin. Has anyone on this sight ever had valves this tight? Especially on a motor with 3k miles on it?

**Big T** · 02-13-2012, 08:03 PM

About $5 each new, or you can swap at the Shim Club

Valves tighten up the most in the first miles

**mike_of_bbg** · 02-13-2012, 09:10 PM

It is generally considered that, if you cannot get even your smallest feeler in to check a valve, but the shim and bucket will turn easily in the checking position, that there is some clearance - it's just close to 0. If you go down one size on your shim, that puts you at 0.05 (or 0.07-0.08 if you're replacing an "x" size shim) clearance, and you're good.

For the valve checks it's always good to have a metric micrometer or digital caliper you can use to check the actual thickness of the shims. It's printed on the under-side, but invariably a couple of the shims will have the numbers worn off.

Metric feelers (for "the next time"). The 0.02mm is about like aluminum foil.

6 Length 0.02-1mm Thickness Measure Feeler Gauge Tool

http://www.sourcingmap.com/length-0021mm-thickness-measure-feeler-gauge-p-128657.html

Shopping for 6 Length 0.02-1mm Thickness Measure Feeler Gauge Tool from sourcingmap, enjoy low price and free shipping worldwide. The online supermarket offers whatever you want. Buy more, save more.

sourcingmap also has some micrometers starting in the $20 range. Yes, cheap tools - but seem to do the job well enough.