Can't put bike into neutral unless engine is off or while bike is in motion

[MisterOh]

I can't go from 1st to neutral while the bike is stationary with a running engine and going from 1st to 2nd is REALLY hard (I have to seriously force it and that doesn't feel healthy for the transmission at all). If I'm going at anything over 5 MPH, however, shifting is no problem.

This isn't a huge concern at all, but it bothers me at long stop lights when I already have a car behind me. Any ideas?

[butch8231]

ajust your clutch.

[Suzuki_Don]

Ditto "Adjust your clutch".

Check out the process in the workshop manual and adjust it properly.

If that doesn't work then replace the clutch cable, it could have broken strands inside the outer cable that makes movement stiff.

Failing that how old is the oil in the engine. If it's been there for a while it could have thickened so change it to 10w-40 weight oil and see if that makes a difference.

Good luck.

[hjfisk]

1 adjust clutch, if this does not work
2 replace clutch cable, if this does not work,
3 remove clutch cover and inspect clutch basket for excessive wear if the clutch plates have cut into the clutch basket it will prevent the clutch from completely disengaging, generally only if the clutch has been replace with 1 that has steel clutch plates, instead of fiber plates like a Barrnett or something, .Change oil and put back together

[Nessism]

I agree with the others to adjust the clutch first and see if that helps; tighten the cable to remove some free play. If that doesn't help though, the symptoms described can occur if the clutch plates are warped. My bike had a similar problem so all the steel plates were carefully checked with a surface plate (found a few warped) and replaced the fibers with new OE parts. After this work the bike shifts easily between 1 and 2 even if the bike isn't moving.

[Frank Z.]

Recommend Suzuki brand clutch cable over aftermarket, too.

[DanTheMan]

Old, dirty, gummy oil will cause shifting problems. Over the many miles I've ridden my 850, I can always tell when it's time to change oil without even looking at my oil change log because shifting gets difficult. I still have the original clutch and clutch cable as well.
On a side note: You're putting your bike in Neutral at stop lights?????? Bad practice! You don't wear the clutch (no dry throwout bearing there) by keeping it in First gear while waiting for the light. It also gives you a means for quick exit if you notice in your mirrors that the idiot behind you isn't stopping. Of course, that's if you left yourself room for an exit when you stopped behind that car in front of you.

[kawfeedave]

Just to add some info, the idea is that your clutch is dragging. Even though you think it's disengaged, it's really slight engaged and loading the shift mechanism. Adjust the clutch so it's fully disengaged and the problem should go away.

When you're riding, all of the transmission parts are rotating, and shift freely because they 'match up'. With the transmission sitting still, and the input shaft still spinning from the dragging clutch, they don't 'match up'.

For example, think about sitting in neutral with the clutch out. If you grab the cluth and quickly pop the bike into gear, it goes in with a loud 'clunk'. The reason is that you pulled in the clutch but didn't give the input shaft time to stop spinning. The stationary first gear and still spinning input shaft met up, and 'clunked' in the process. In that scenario, the input shaft is spinning, but just free-wheeling. When the clutch drags, the shaft is spinning and being driven at the same time, so instead of a 'clunk' you have a hard time shifting at all.

[LoopGaroo]

In the meantime, shift into 1st before you come to a complete stop. Also, If it's not cooperating, try rolling the bike forward or backward a few inches, then try again. That trick helps me out when i forget to leave the bike in neutral in the garage and need to shift it into neutral when the bike is off.

[MisterOh]

thanks everyone! i'll adjust the clutch/completely replace the cable sometime this week and I'll get back to you all.

As for going into neutral at a light... I only want to do it if there's already a car behind me and the light is going to take an eternity to change. Plenty of those down here in SD...

[rapidray]

If it still does the same stuff after all the adjustments, you probably have a Barnett clutch & need to take it out, THROW IT AWAY, & install a stock Suzuki clutch. Ray.

[bbjumper]

+1 on the replacement, I had a Barnett clutch on my "G" and it never did shift smoothly. I have the stock plates and springs plus an OEM cable now and all is good.

[sologsl]

I just installed an APE clutch heavy duty race/street and extra plate......and now im having similar issues with her... I noticed if the cable at the lever is too far in, in first with the clutch lever in, the.bike rolls forward on its own. When I adj. The cable out further, that issue.stops but.either.way its a pain in the butt to get into neutral and to shift without the clutch... I was informed that its ok to shift without the clutch due to the wet clutch system????

[DanTheMan]

I just installed an APE clutch heavy duty race/street and extra plate......and now im having similar issues with her... I noticed if the cable at the lever is too far in, in first with the clutch lever in, the.bike rolls forward on its own. When I adj. The cable out further, that issue.stops but.either.way its a pain in the butt to get into neutral and to shift without the clutch... I was informed that its ok to shift without the clutch due to the wet clutch system????

Clutchless shifting, wet or dry clutch is the same. If you're shifting without the clutch, you're not disengaging the engine from the drivetrain, it just requires that you match engine speed and gear speed. If you haven't done that before, it takes a little practice. The difference between wet clutch/dry clutch is the lubricant (oil) in the wet clutch helps prevent fyring the clutch plate when you're using the friction zone (also known as "slipping the clutch").
You may need to remove the extra plate, and mix OEM springs (50%) with the APE springs. Otherwise, your left hand will either be abnormally strong and muscular, or you just won't be able to use it because it's so sore.