1982 gs550l cam timing waaaaaay off...how do I set my timing?

[Defore]

Ok I see thank you very much. As soon as I get these bolts out Ill do that. Now can I go to a near store that sells bolts like lowes and buy some bolts the same length to replace these?

[mike_of_bbg]

You're welcome.

I wouldn't try to replace those bolts with anything but exact OEM match. If Nessism is offering I'd take him up on it. It's only about 4 days' 1st-class mail time CA -> FL.

As Steve pointed out, having your cams out anyway it's a nice time to catalog all your installed shims. Now you'll easily be able to see which ones can swap in where to get you in spec. You probably won't need to buy/trade more than 2 or 3.

Ok I see thank you very much. As soon as I get these bolts out Ill do that. Now can I go to a near store that sells bolts like lowes and buy some bolts the same length to replace these?

[Nessism]

The Suzuki bolts have a "9" on them so they are hardened. Equal to roughly SAE grade 8. If you can find some black allen head bolts, those are typically hardened and should be plenty strong. If you want some bolts from me, you can have them for shipping cost. Drop me a PM if you want to discuss.

[Suzuki_Don]

This stolen pic might help if you can see details.

That looks surprisingly like my motor.

In fact it also looks like my work environment in the background.

It also has slotted camshaft sprockets just like my motor.

I wonder ! ! ! !


On a serious note though, this picture has only 19 pins between the #2 and #3 marks so dont be mislead by that. You need 20 pins on your motor as explained previously. This motor has a 650 top end on a 550 bottom end so things are a bit different to standard.

[tom203]

[QUOTE=Suzuki_Don;1584344
That looks surprisingly like my motor.

In fact it also looks like my work environment in the background.

It also has slotted camshaft sprockets just like my motor.

I wonder ! ! ! !


On a serious note though, this picture has only 19 pins between the #2 and #3 marks so dont be mislead by that. You need 20 pins on your motor as explained previously. This motor has a 650 top end on a 550 bottom end so things are a bit different to standard.[/QUOTE]



I confess- I'm a thief! but I mean well and save any pics that look helpful.

[Defore]

Awesome thanks guys. And about checked by the valves...it has 3k miles on it but the valves are so tight I can't fit .0015 between any of them so i don't even know where to start.

[mike_of_bbg]

the valves are so tight I can't fit .0015 between any of them so i don't even know where to start.

Well, if you catalog all the shims you have, you can get yourself a shim one size thinner than the smallest and start swapping from there (or a few if you have multiple in that smallest size). If none of them will accept a 0.0015" feeler (which is still a bit larger than the smallest spec clearance, but more commonly available - and it's really no problem to run 0.09mm or 0.10mm if you go down a size when the gap is that small, anyway), yet all of the buckets will turn with ease one size down is likely the way to go.

Some people get a very thin "measuring shim" to slip in when doing the checks. If you have a 2.40 you can swap in, then say your smallest required shim is 2.60, you ought to be able to measure out 0.23-0.28mm! It's that 0.03 that trips people up.

Do you know what sizes your shims are now?

Did you look at the procedure on BassCliff's site, also in the service manual? There are very specific positions the cams should be in when checking the gaps. These specific positions eliminate the effects of the valve springs for pairs of cams at a time. Do you have your cams back in and timed now (even if you're still missing a couple of bolts)?

[Suzuki_Don]

I confess- I'm a thief! but I mean well and save any pics that look helpful.

Hey Tom, nothing wrong with collecting pictures or for that matter any other information for reference at a later stage. Never know when you might get some damage in the engine and need reference data. My engine rebuild and 650 top end replacement all started with stripped cam cap bolt holes in the head which could not be repaired.

[Defore]

I was going to wait till I finished removing the 2nd bolt before reinstalling the cam. but I did pull the shims from the exhaust side (Im not looking at it now but the side facing the back of the bike) and marked them. The numbers on them were 2.75, 2.80, 2.85 and 2.90. "mike of bbq" your making me wana do it myself! Where can I buy shims because if itll only cost $20 more for this mechanic to do it then Id rather know its being done right. It helps seeing other year gs bikes in there being worked on.

[Steve]

but I did pull the shims from the exhaust side (Im not looking at it now but the side facing the back of the bike) ...

Take another look at your bike and think things though for just a moment.

Your carburetors are on the side of the engine that is "facing the back of the bike".

Most bikes breathe IN through the carburetors.

Your exhaust side is usually facing the EXHAUST PIPES, you know, those chrome pipes on the FRONT of the engine?

And, if you are looking for someplace to record your shims and clearances, read my sig.

.

[Defore]

hahaha Dumbest thing ive said in a while...

[cowboyup3371]

Check out the shim club here found in the gs services section

[Defore]

Check out the shim club here found in the gs services section

I can not find where this is!

[mike_of_bbg]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=122394

Basically, you need to send a PM to GhostGS1 and let him know what you need (and if you're exchanging, what you're sending in return). He'll tell you the terms. IIRC, it's $5 to buy shims, and free to swap: postage donation highly appreciated.

I can not find where this is!