Need help troubleshooting an odd issue

[Suzuki_Don]

I'm also with CHEF on this.

Did you replace the intake boot (large) "O" rings, if not then this is where your air leak will be.

[THE_FATTIE]

I replaced the O-rings between the carb boots and the cylinders if thats what your asking.

I did remove all of the jets and dipped them, then used carb cleaner and canned electronics air, because a compressor was not available. Is there any way to easily find an air leak?

It seems like a carbtune will be most helpful.

[Steve]

This is the reason I dont have much free time, Totally worth it tho!

First kid?

Did you get an owner's manual?


It's a short manual:

Keep her wet at one end and dry at the other. If she cries, you have it backwards.

.

[Suzuki mad]

It seems like a carbtune will be most helpful.

With what you are saying is wrong with the bike a carbtune will not solved your problems. All it will do is balance the running of the carbs to each other. If its not running the right mixture it wont tell you that.

I know its hard to take but you need to strip and clean those carbs fully first, check/replace the rubber boots from the engine to carb and carb to air box and see what you've got them.

[TheCafeKid]

You also didn't mention if, after you put your carbs back on and started the bike if you also installed the airbox. In order to even begin adjusting the carbs the airbox MUST be on! Not only must it be on, it must be properly sealed! Since you have a 550 I'm going to assume you have the two peice airbox. There's the part that connect to the carbs (make absolutely certain all of the boots are on the carbs all the way around. They tend to want to catch an edge and not go on at the bottom...) and the filter section which is under the seat. The filter must be in, the likely the foam around the lid that seals it shut will need replaced. You can use some simple weather stripping tape to do that...
But these carbs will not run properly without the airbox installed completely and sealed. A hanging idle is, assuming your idle speed knob isnt jacked up to a higher speed than it should be, indicative of an air leak somewhere...

And I'll echo everyone else in saying: 2'hours isn't nearly enough time to soak your carbs... Time to give it another shot

[chuck hahn]

3RD paragrah of post 1...Only dipped them for about 2 HRS..replaced all the orings with the kit and also the orings in the intake manifolds...Dont think Chefs air leaks the problem..UNLESS.... the intake manifold orings have gotten pinched and out of the groove somehow. Banshee just had an issue with having to stretch the ones he got to go in the intake manifolds and he had the high rev and die scenario. I informed him he had the wrong ones because they should just slip into the groove without stretching. He has replaced them and all is good again.

[TheCafeKid]

3RD paragrah of post 1...Only dipped them for about 2 HRS..replaced all the orings with the kit and also the orings in the intake manifolds...Dont think Chefs air leaks the problem..UNLESS.... the intake manifold orings have gotten pinched and out of the groove somehow. Banshee just had an issue with having to stretch the ones he got to go in the intake manifolds and he had the high rev and die scenario. I informed him he had the wrong ones because they should just slip into the groove without stretching. He has replaced them and all is good again.

If he doesn't have the airbox on then he's got a massive air leak

[THE_FATTIE]

As far as behind the carbs, I do have the air box on. When I bought the bike it did not have the filter or lid so I bought one off here. The filter is pretty dry tho.. Could that be an issue? Also I dont remember having any difficulty when putting the o-rings on the carb boots. Then again it was a while ago. I know I did put some engine oil on them...

Also this seems to be the closest feeler gauge set I can find.. Will this do for now?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-25-blades-metric-feeler-gauge/_/N-265p?itemIdentifier=466516_0_0_

Also I want to make sure that this is my petcock and my carbboots... Im going to buy the petcock just to eliminate it as a possibility. Im still going back and forth on the boots...

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Carb-Holders--Suzuki-GS550-GS650-4410.aspx

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Petcock-vacuum-Suzuki-1715.aspx

[cowboyup3371]

You should definitely purchase the boots if there is any sort of a crack on any of them or if they are hard at all as they are a big issue for the hanging idle problem. I replaced mine as one had a crack around the vacuum screw (where you connect the synchronizer); I didn't have a huge issue but it was enough to warrant it.

[chef1366]

While it is running spray carb cleaner around the boots and if the idle changes you have an air leak. Use the straw on the can to keep the spray isolated so it doesn't find another way into the air box.

[THE_FATTIE]

Not really a success but progress non the less...

While tinkering around today I thought I should get some more gas as I was about out. I got a 5 gallon gas can and filled my bike up. Right when it was almost full I noticed a very strong gas smell. I looked down and had a puddle! Upon further inspection I found out that while the bike was not running and the petcock was in the On position that I had a pretty steady stream of gas coming out between the two left (as you sit on the bike) carbs.

So Im thinking a new petcock and new floats and needle valves are in order. When I dipped them they did not look that bad, but then again I have not messed with carbs much so I really dont know what "good" parts look like. Is it a safe bet to get new ones just to be sure?

[TheCafeKid]

The float needles will be due for replacement generally if they have a distinct "groove" worn into the tips that you can feel with your finger nail. It'll be a ringed groove around the tip from where the needle seals in the inlet seat. They're not horridly expensive so if you question them, just purchase new.
As for the petcock, if it's leaking that badly in the "ON" position with the motor off, it's trash. This is assuming its a stock one and not a pingel or other aftermarket that is only on or off. (yours should be a vacuum type stock)
Rebuild kits are generally a bad idea simply because the success rate is rather low. Don't listen to the cheap arses who say "if you clean em right blah blah blah, they can be rebuilt.." The fact of the matter is, once the insides of those taps get pitted from corrosion and varnish, even cleaning them well and installing a rebuild kit is no sure thing. The difference here is you might spend $15 on a rebuild, vs $45-50 on a new petcock. If the rebuild works, great, if it doesn't, and doesn't leak profusely, you may not notice it until your crank case is full of gas, and then you're out another $20 for new oil and filter or more. And worse case it washes your bearings down or you snap a conrod when it hydro locks. Unlike the early (pre-1980) bikes, your carbs don't have overflow tubes to dump fuel onto the ground in this situation. Instead the bowls will fill til the gas flows out of the carb throats and into your airbox and crank case. Like any fluid, gasoline will not compress, and if it overflows into your cylinders, the potential is there for you to come out, try to start the bike with a cylinder full of gas and it will snap a connecting rod. This is worse case but it's not something to play with.
A new petcock will ensure that you have NO leakage. Spend the dough now, and don't worry about it for 20 more years. Or you might end up spending major bucks later. That's my philosophy on it.

If you've already had evidence of a leaking petcock, don't run the bike at all until you've changed the oil and filter. Once you've got the petcock sorted out, and you're sure your float needles and float heights are correct, and you're ready for some shake down runs, change the oil and filter again within 50-100 miles. This will help ensure that you've eliminated all of the gasoline from your oiling system. As I've said here and many have said before, the 8 valve 550 and 750 engines are probably the most near bulletproof of the GS line, but one thing that will kill ANY engine is gassed out oil. It thins the oil, washes the bearings and cylinder walls of precious lubrication and will allow metal on metal contact which will do serious damage in short order. If you fear that your cylinders have fuel in them as well, once you've changed the oil, pull the plugs and spin the engine without the plugs in, and it should blow out most of the gasoline, at least enough to prevent the worst of the damage. Change the oil again as mentioned and you'll be good

[THE_FATTIE]

Is this cause for concern? I was working on the bike today, I got the carbs out and decided to take the petcock out. This is where the petcock and the tank meet. It was also covered in orange silicone.

Im about to begin taking apart the carbs again. Hopefully this time Ill be able to recognise things that need to be replaced...

[chef1366]

What's the inside of the tank look like?

[THE_FATTIE]

I cant see much from ether hole... the gas that came out was slightly amber colored... but I have no idea how long its been in there or what additives the PO put in it...