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    #1

    Clutch still not working

    Trying to get my bike ready to ride, and the last thing is the clutch. I took it for a test ride a while back (after doing a lot of other work), and at high rpm's, the clutch would slip, and it never quite felt right at low speed either.

    I've replaced the clutch cable, and it appears to be routed correctly. Has a nice, smooth pull, and I can see the arm on the clutch housing being actuated smoothly.

    This weekend, I replaced the clutch springs with new OEM ones. I measured my old ones, and they were 3mm shorter than the new ones, so not sure if they needed replaced or not. Everything in side looked nice, but I didn't pull the basket/discs so I really didn't check them. Also, after I put it back together, I had to remove the arm off the clutch lever, and rotate it about 90 degrees. At first, I could move the arm effortlessly about 90 degrees before it started to get resistance from the clutch.

    I started with the adjuster on the handlebar turned all the way in, as well as the adjuster on the engine. I took the arm off the clutch lever, and rotated it clock-wise one tooth, as with it how it was, I really had to push in on the arm to attach the cable, and had 0 free play.

    With the adjusters all the way in, I had a pretty good amount of free play (had about a 1/4" gap at the handlebar lever before the arm started to move). I turned the adjuster at the engine in, until I had just a tiny gap at the handlebar lever before the arm started to move. However, when I start the bike on the center stand, the clutch doesn't do anything. The bike tire will be spinning, and if I pull the lever, it doesn't stop. Am I just not adjusting this thing right, or is something else wrong?
    Tags: None
    #2
    The tire will not stop spinning when pulling in the clutch when on the center stand. This part is normal. Hopefully, if the clutch is properly disengaged, the bike won't roll with the clutch pulled in.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      The tire will not stop spinning when pulling in the clutch when on the center stand. This part is normal. Hopefully, if the clutch is properly disengaged, the bike won't roll with the clutch pulled in.
      good to know, i'll quit considering throwing the bike on craigslist until i take it for a test ride

      just need to bleed the brakes, and its ready to go.

      Comment

        #4
        You will have some clutch drag when on the center stand, couple of reasons why that happens. New stiffer clutch springs, thicker clutch plates, and the oil hasn't heated up yet and it takes some miles for that to really happen. Just sitting there idling won't warm up the bike like it should. Some other reasons, clutch cable not adjusted just right, warpped plates to begin with. It's just a process of elimination like everything else on a bike. Just gotta work through it.
        sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
        1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
        2015 CAN AM RTS


        Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

        Comment

          #5
          got it working this weekend. took it for a ride, and it was better than it was pre-springs, but still slipped at 7k. turned in the clutch adjuster on the case more (so that there was more slack in the line), and now it works perfect. too bad i didn't get a good seal putting the clutch case back on (must not have got all the old gasket material off), so now i'll have to open it back up and fix it. but its just a slight leak, so I'll get that fixed.

          Also found the front master cylinder is leaking. I had removed the resivoir to clear out the return port, and didn't replace the o-ring. So now I get to buy a $6 o-ring and pay that much for shipping, unless I can find the specs and get one local.

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