Tensioner Leak

[MisterCinders]

I noticed a very slight leak at the cam chain tensioner. A drop forms slowly at the end of the big spring knob, not the gasket where the tensioner mounts on the head.

I know about Bwringer's guid to re-building the tensioner, but hope that I won't need to go that far (with the vice and chasing down the un-numbered seal, etc.).

To just pull the tensioner, should I just turn the engine to "T"; pull the tensioner (making sure to never turn the cylinders); clean it up and replace? Or will I have to pull apart the valve cover to monitor the cam chain points?

[Big T]

As long as you don't turn the motor with the tensioner out, no need to pull the valve cover

New seals are probably required for the tensioner

[TheCafeKid]

As long as you don't turn the motor with the tensioner out, no need to pull the valve cover

New seals are probably required for the tensioner

Indeed...I've honestly never turned the timing when pulling them. Never had a problem either. Seals are required if you're leaking from the knob as the oring is trashed. Not difficult to rebuild. You'll spend more time dealing with getting he carbs in and out than actually working on the tensioner most likely...
Make sure to clean off all of the gasket. There's no pressure behind the tensioner but the sling from the chain will make an oily mess quickly if you don't. And do follow the instructions on setting the tensioner/arming it. The set screw must not be tightened down, but backed off a half turn or so to allow the plunger to move and do its job.

[bwringer]

If you can't get the large cap nut off, it's certainly possible to replace the seal without removing the cap nut or tensioner shaft.

You just remove the seal the same was as any other seal with a shaft in the middle -- very carefully drill a small hole, screw in a small wood screw, then pop the old seal out.

[sedelen]

I just replaced a leaky cam chain tensioner on my '82 GS1100E day before yesterday. This was the forth one I replaced I believe (lost count!), as they were leaky.
I did not have to pull the carbs, tank, valve cover, or anything else. Just don't turn the engine over with the tensioner out. All I used as a 10mm wrench to break the mounting bolts free, a 12mm to loosen the set screw lock nut, a flat head screwdriver to tighten the set screw before I removed it and a skinny phillips to remove the mounting bolts, they're slotted for a phillips! That's it! I reused the old mounting gasket. Here's a thread on that, with pic's!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=188030