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Trouble with oil and fuel 1978 gs750

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    #16
    If the valves are not properly shimmed and/or adjusted that wouldn't lead to oil bypass would it? Thanks for ALL the quick and knowledgeable replies everyone!

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mocks View Post
      I went ahead and ordered the factory service manual for it.
      Factory service manual is available on BassCliff's site in PDF format free of charge. You have spent a week or two reading all the stuff on there haven't you?
      -Mal

      "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
      ___________

      78 GS750E

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        #18
        No, this is the first I've heard of a FREE manual. I just paid $47 for one, dang! Oh well, have one in my hand before long.

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          #19
          If the plug is black underneath the wetness, then may be rich and/or mis-adjusted timing. If the wetness itself is black, then it is oil-fouled. Compare the plugs to the images here:

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            #20
            Is your bad cylinder #3? The one with the vacuum line? Does your oil smell like gas?

            Are you saying you haven't read the Basscliff site? You did get the Megawelcome, right?

            Also, Since the guy who "cleaned" your carbs apparently knows very little about carbs, you might want to consider completely redoing them. The VM tutorial is on the BC site.
            Last edited by Big T; 05-23-2012, 04:57 PM.
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

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              #21
              Mocks, step away from your motorcycle.

              Go back to post #3 and check out all the links BassCliff has provided. You must do the donkey work and read up on your machine before you can expect to get it running right. Yeah, it's a pain but it has to be done. You won't regret it.
              -Mal

              "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
              ___________

              78 GS750E

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                #22
                And on top of this I don't think my needles seat due to the fact that fuel dumps outta the bowl drains. Could a needle being set too far low/high keep it from seating properly? They look good, but I'm not for sure where the PO set them(if he even did). I know my petcock works, so its not that.

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                  #23
                  If the floats are really low, you might flood out the tubes. More likely, your needle valves are sticking or the floats are snagging on something like the bowl gasket.

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                    #24
                    Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Mocks View Post
                      Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?
                      Dip your carbs and all the brass bits in Berrymans for 24 hours, buy an o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and a gasket set (top and bottom) from Z1. Apparently, the kits are crap.
                      -Mal

                      "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                      ___________

                      78 GS750E

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Mocks View Post
                        Floats are free, but I'm not sure if the needles are sticking or not. Are the complete carb kits on eBay worth it or are they junk?
                        What height are the floats set?

                        To check your needle valves and seats, you can do two things.

                        First, pull the needle and seat out. Clean it off and then blow through the bottom of the seat as you gingerly push in the needle. Once it seats, you should feel it seal up and your cheeks will puff out like you are blowing a balloon. Otherwise, the needle is not seating properly and you need to clean out the seat and possibly replace that set.

                        If they all pass the blow test, you need to figure out whether fuel is slipping past the needle/seat o-ring. Put the carbs back together but leave the float bowls off. Then stand the rack up in a catch basin. I use a big oil change pan, but even a big foil casserole pan will work. Prop or hold it up from the bottom since you don't have bowls there. Then run fuel through the line.

                        You should see fuel coming through each needle valve. Gently lift the floats to make sure that fuel flow stops. It should only take about 30 seconds to check all 4 floats, so you won't be spilling a ton of gas.

                        If fuel drips or dribbles in with the float up, the needle seat o-ring is failing and needs to be replaced.

                        If both tests are clean, the last thing to check is the float movement. Even if they move nicely, you should double check that movement with the bowl gasket in place. I had one float that kept snagging on the edge of the bowl gasket, but it moved fine when I pulled the carbs apart.

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                          #27
                          Dipping your carbs is the first step to eliminating your carb problems............
                          -Mal

                          "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                          ___________

                          78 GS750E

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by allojohn View Post
                            Dip your carbs and all the brass bits in Berrymans for 24 hours, buy an o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and a gasket set (top and bottom) from Z1. Apparently, the kits are crap.
                            Do you mean while attatched to the rail and bolted together?

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Mocks View Post
                              Do you mean while attatched to the rail and bolted together?
                              No, you have to tear them completely down. There is a superb tutorial on BassCliff's site.
                              -Mal

                              "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                              ___________

                              78 GS750E

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Mocks, have you been to Basscliff's site yet and read through your mega-welcome? If not, please put down the tools and do so very quickly. It will save you lots of heartache if you follow the recommendations of all the extremely knowledgeable folks on this forum.
                                Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                                1981 GS550T - My First
                                1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                                2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                                Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                                Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                                and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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