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    While I'm replacing a head gasket...

    1982 GS750, running fine with plenty of power and good compression, but weeping some oil so new head gasket time. What other "as long as I've got the motor out and the heads off " stuff would you recommend that won't cost much?

    #2
    base gasket as you have more than likely disturbed the seal by pulling the head off. you dont want to bolt it all back together to find the base gasket leaking!
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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      #3
      and ya may as well decoke the head while yer there if needed...

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        #4
        Nevermind. Wrong year.

        Eric
        Last edited by Guest; 06-25-2012, 12:10 PM.

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          #5
          See attached fiche showing two O-rings (#17) under the head cover. These are often the reason for oil leaks in the front of the engine - usually appears like a head gasket issue.

          Check & see if they're your issue before pulling the head off...

          BTW - you don't have to pull the engine out of the frame to remove the head/jugs.


          If however, you must replace the head gasket then:
          • Use an OEM replacement head gasket
          • Might as well replace the base gasket too
          • New valve stem seals too...
          '85 GS550L - SOLD
          '85 GS550E - SOLD
          '82 GS650GL - SOLD
          '81 GS750L - SOLD
          '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
          '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
          '82 GS1100G - SOLD
          '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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            #6
            Check your valves, check your valve seals and guides, replace as necessary, half moons, clean your breather, exhaust gaskets. Don't know if you got O rings for your carb boots, don't think so.
            sigpic
            Steve
            "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
            _________________
            '79 GS1000EN
            '82 GS1100EZ

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              #7
              Thanks guys, will get a new base gasket and valve seals.

              What do you recommend to de-coke an aluminum head? Will carb spray get rid of it or need something stronger?

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                #8
                I might also lap the valves while they are out, if they don't need to be re-cut, replaced etc.

                If you are pulling the jugs to swap the base gasket, inspect the pistons and rings. If there is any need to deal with that stuff, now is the time to tee it up.

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                  #9
                  Too add a little caveat..make sure..doubly, triply sure, when you set your valve lash, that you tighten those nuts on the rockers really well...Im back to square one again because I invariably screwed up and must have missed one..another chain to do now...

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                    #10
                    Ok, if I'm replacing the base gasket I decided I may as well do it right - de-crud everything, polish and hone the cylinders, check and replace the rings, check the pistons and wrist pins, and put a shine on it when I'm done. Wish I had a bead blaster, will have to make do with simple green and elbow grease.

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                      #11
                      Replace the circlips that hold the wrist pins in... buy an extra one or two, they seem to vanish sometimes
                      '85 GS550L - SOLD
                      '85 GS550E - SOLD
                      '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                      '81 GS750L - SOLD
                      '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                      '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                      '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                      '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by hikermikem View Post
                        Replace the circlips that hold the wrist pins in... buy an extra one or two, they seem to vanish sometimes
                        Good idea. And I guess that's what oil filters are for .

                        Any recommendation for where to get a top end gasket set? The one at Z1 is out of stock, not finding anything else at a comparable price.
                        Last edited by Guest; 06-26-2012, 10:29 AM.

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                          #13
                          Plug up the case opening with a shop rag and use care when installing in the piston, they won't make it to the oil filter, if your unlucky they will bounce around down around the crank and they don't play well with rotating parts. You can usually fish em out with a magnet or worst case remove the oil pan.

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                            #14
                            You could replace the clutch rod and output shaft seal while you're at it too.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Some really good advice above!

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