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So I get the valves all sorted and the rings done and now...

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    So I get the valves all sorted and the rings done and now...

    I'm bolting down the cam shafts and one of the things that holds down the exhaust cam has a threaded bolt. Great. I am certain that I didn't thread it. It never got close to being tight.

    Oh well. Back to the machinist I guess to get a new thread insert. Just as soon as I do one thing another pops up to slow me down. Is there anything I need to know/watch out for when I get the new thread in the head? The guys I am taking it to are very knowledgeable and I actually trust them (!) but I like to know as much as possible before spending money on things.

    #2
    I heli-coil those cam cap threads all the time.
    It's very common.
    Do it yourself.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      And, the threads/bolts can be deeper in the blind holes in which they thread.

      I had to do the same thing in my '82 GS1200G project with grade 10.9 Allen head bolts...




      Eric

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        #4
        And use a torque wrench this time

        Those have a specific torque, and while all the rest of the bolts onthe bike do too, THOSE are imparitive to have correct for this very reason among others..

        Before I was taught in the ways of the GS, I used to tighten things like case cover bolts up until they were tight. Tight.
        Once I was schooled, and started torquing things to correct values, I was amazed at how much I'd been over-torquing things, and amazed that I hadn't managed to strip the hell out of a crap load of holes.
        Alu is soft...
        Last edited by Guest; 06-29-2012, 02:28 AM.

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          #5
          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
          And use a torque wrench this time

          Those have a specific torque, and while all the rest of the bolts onthe bike do too, THOSE are imparitive to have correct for this very reason among others..

          Inch-pounds...



          7 foot pounds=84 inch pounds (simple math)


          Eric

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            #6
            Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
            Inch-pounds...



            7 foot pounds=84 inch pounds (simple math)


            Eric
            6.0-8.5 ft lbs.

            But Eric/Daniel is correct, if you've got an inch/Lb wrench, use it. Most torque wrenches are less accurate at the extreme ends of their adjustment range.

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              #7
              Torque wrenches are money savers

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                #8
                I have a Snap-On, might be a little while before it SAVES me any money, lol.
                But yeah, torques aren't suggestions.


                Tank

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                  #9
                  FWIW I DO have a torque wrench. I said I didn't have it anywhere near tight. Why do you all assume I wasn't using a torque wrench? And I'm reluctant to use any different kind of bolts because the manual - which I am repeatedly told to follow religiously here - says not to use any other bolts because they won't be strong enough.

                  I haven't installed a helicoil before and sure ain't going to use my cams to learn how to! So as long as a helicoil is ok here that's what I will use, and I'll get my machinist friend to do it for me!

                  Cheers!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Did you clamp down the camshaft into the head the way the service manual instructs before you installed the bolts? If not, pulling the cams down into the head, against the force of the valve springs, places a lot of needless load on the cap threads.

                    Not saying you did this, just a caution in case you did, or if someone else is reading this thread - it's an ongoing learning experience for all of us.

                    Good luck

                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #11
                      FWIW I'm out.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yeah I did everything according to the manual. Maybe it's just one of those things? Maybe it was like that before? Who knows. Thanks for the help anyway guys - I can get it fixed so onwards I go.

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