Possible Clutch Drag '77 GS550

[sammy123]

I have been reading clutch threads all morning and I'm pretty sure I have a clutch issue.

I have been having some bike issues recently and I happened to be rolling down a hill. While rolling I put it in 1st gear and had the clutch pull in. The bike slowed down quite a bit.

Also, when running it will want to lightly move forward at stops when in gear, with the clutch pulled in.

Is this clutch drag?

Is this something that can be adjusted?

I had already adjusted the cable. I took the cover off, the one right above the shift lever and made some minor adjustments but did not really know what I was doing. Only a 1/4" turn. I followed this thread and got the clutch to feel better: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ighlight=stops

The bike aparently has new clutch plates...according to the receipt given to me by the PO. But a friend did the work for him. So maybe he did a poor job?

Any ideas?

Thank you.

[Nessism]

How much freeplay do you have at the hand lever? Should only be about 1/2" or so lever movement before resistance is felt. If you have more than this, tighten the cable some more. If you have the proper amount of freeplay yet the clutch still drags a lot, then you should take the clutch apart and inspect all the parts, including the flatness of all the plates.

Some clutch drag is normal, but not too much. The bike shouldn't move forward when in 1st gear and the clutch is pulled in.

[sammy123]

Thanks Nessism. I don't have much free play at all. So maybe I made it worse when I was playing with it the other day. So I should loosen the cable? Isn't this adjustment a combination of all three adjustment points though? At the lever, at the top of the case where the cable attaches, and inside the case where the bolt and adjsutable rod are?

[Nessism]

Yes, multi adjustment points. All interchangeable. As long as the free play is correct it doesn't matter how you achieved that.

You didn't explain what the actual bike problem is other than maybe creeping with clutch pulled in? If so, I'd pull the clutch apart and measure everything, particularly clutch plate flatness and make sure the basket isn't notched too bad.

[Missile99]

Mine has just a touch of drag too, not noticeable with bike on the ground. I adjusted it and checked on the center stand, wheel has some resistance in 1st with clutch pulled in. Nessism documented a procedure for 550's and it's on BikeCliff's website. Follow his adjustment suggestions and see if it helps.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/clutch_odds-n-ends.html

[sammy123]

Yes, multi adjustment points. All interchangeable. As long as the free play is correct it doesn't matter how you achieved that.

You didn't explain what the actual bike problem is other than maybe creeping with clutch pulled in? If so, I'd pull the clutch apart and measure everything, particularly clutch plate flatness and make sure the basket isn't notched too bad.

My other problems are all newbie maintenance stuff that I am working through. I have an air leak and the hose that goes from the engine to the air box was disconnected. So I was running the bike after fixing that to see if it changed the way it runs.
Through this and other experimenting I killed my battery and was just rolling down the hill back to my garage when I noticed the new clutch issues. This was the first ride with the bike off. haha. Battery on the charger as we type.

That was the first time I had taken the tank off. I am building my confidence and am hoping to get my new o-rings on the boots soon. I bought another carb set for cheap to experiment (learn) with and have spare parts. I am taking the boots from that to put on my bike. And I am probably going to use the jets as well once I put the original exhaust back on this winter, which I just picked up cheap.

The only change I made was to put a standard K&N air filter on.

[sammy123]

Mine has just a touch of drag too, not noticeable with bike on the ground. I adjusted it and checked on the center stand, wheel has some resistance in 1st with clutch pulled in. Nessism documented a procedure for 550's and it's on BikeCliff's website. Follow his adjustment suggestions and see if it helps.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ds-n-ends.html

Thank you. I have read this and it was very educational. I think putting the bike on the center stand to do these adjustments is a good idea. Hopefully I can do this tonight, but if not probably will have to wait until after the holliday.

[Missile99]

The leaking breather hose shouldn't affect the way it runs, it's just an early attempt at emissions. It's very important to have the intake system sealed and don't forget the airbox cover. Also, a clean air filter, not over-oiled is very important too.

It sounds like you have several hours ahead cleaning up the electrical system connections to have it charging properly unless your battery is toast. Could be a combo of both. Enjoy the fun!

[sammy123]

The leaking breather hose shouldn't affect the way it runs, it's just an early attempt at emissions. It's very important to have the intake system sealed and don't forget the airbox cover. Also, a clean air filter, not over-oiled is very important too.

It sounds like you have several hours ahead cleaning up the electrical system connections to have it charging properly unless your battery is toast. Could be a combo of both. Enjoy the fun!

I am having a ton of fun with this. I am learning everyday and enjoying it a great deal. I don't really know, but the charging system seems to have been working. I rode the bike knowing the battery was almost dead from me wearing it out trying to start it the other day. I don't think I rode it long enough for the charging system to be able to do its job. It has charged my battery in the past so I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that is working.

It was so low yesterday that it could only turn on the headlight, oil light, and neutral light; not start the bike with the electronic starter. I used the kick start to get it going.

About the emissions, wouldn't the airbox be taking in more air than normal if the hose was not on there, potentially creating a lean situation?

[Missile99]

Okay. I was thinking you were trying to start it periodically, not constantly. If it's charged your battery in the past, you should be good. Go through connections anyway to be safe. I don't think a small leak in the breather hose would cause any problems, maybe though. A stumble is the effect I imagine the engine having, not dying on you. It being off completely could be a big problem like running way lean. I never checked. Someone might chime in on this that's better versed.

[sammy123]

Good morning,

I just wanted to let you guys know that I put the bike up on the center stand and made adjsutments. The adjustable rod (not sure the name) needed a turn counter-clockwise. I think the PO had it too tight and I just made it worse the first time around by no fully testing it after a clockwise 1/4" turn. Now I have no movement of the wheel in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in. I rode it up and down the street and did not notice any issues related to the clutch.

I think once I get back in town from the holiday I am going to attack the carbs and replace all the o-rings in the carbs and on the boots. And of course take a look at the airbox.

My stock exhaust is coming in the mail soon so I might as well try to get this thing as close to stock as possible while I have the carbs out by putting the stock jets back in.

Time to research air boxes and stuck header bolts.

Thanks again.

[Missile99]

Good news on the clutch sammy123. One headache down.

Going back to stock is a wise choice. These things feel plenty powerful stock and there is no guesswork for jetting.
The breather hose contributes some air into the system, don't know how much or how often, this is why I'm not sure if a small leak from it affects too much or anything at all. I am surprised that my airbox was not full of cracks and leaks for being 30 yrs. old. The intake seems to be all sealed up now.

Much patience is required for a stuck header bolt. This is definitely worth some good research to avoid breakage. See ya. Enjoy the summer.

[sammy123]

updates and a question

Well my clutch drag problems are back. Does anyone know why this would have returned? Adjusting it is easy enough, but I don't know why it would have returned. The cable is newer (replaced by the PO).

In other news, I got my stock exhaust on. I broke a bolt off in the engine by misreading my torque number in the manual. Luckily the others survived. I was doing everything right, but lost focus and started working too fast. I was so upset with myself. It is a horrible feeling breaking a bolt.

I had just finished the o-ring replacement process and cleaning. It went well. The previous owner was not lying when he said he cleaned them. They were spotless on the inside. I took them apart and soaked them again anyways. I swapped a few parts with the second carb set I had. Everything was stock though, not jet kit as the owner stated. No wonder it ran like garbage with the chopped exhaust. The strip down and cleaning was as easy as everyone said. I had my shop (The Shop in Milwaukee) synch them since they had it to extract the bolt. It runs so well now.

I am leaving the valve adjustment/shimming for next season. I know, I know I should do it now, but I just want to ride and improve my skills. The more I work on this bike I can see that it was pretty well taken care of by the 1st owner at least. The PO was apparently the 2nd owner.

[Missile99]

For a while there I had some difficulty adjusting my clutch too. It was good then the next day it seemed to drag more, but never enough to pull the bike if I was stopped in 1st gear. It might have to do with oil temp or oil quality. Maybe it had at some point dumped excess fuel into the crankcase before your carb work. How does the oil smell?

Mine is good right now and the lever is a bit floppy (does not snap all the way back when released, maybe 1/2" of no resistance). It works. There is some drag still because while on center stand with the lever pulled in the wheel turns a bit in gear. The engagement point is spot on.

[Steve]

I am leaving the valve adjustment/shimming for next season. I know, I know I should do it now, but I just want to ride and improve my skills.

Just so you are aware, ... after checking your valve clearances (especially if you have to change any of them), you will have to re-synch your carbs.

Since you seem to be handy with your tools, you might want to start saving up for your own sync tool.
The current favorite is the Morgan Carbtune. The cost is GBP 65, which, as of today, is just under $102.
A great price for now, but fluctuates with the exchange rate.

.