1 and 4 run, 2 and 3 have issues

[Big Red]

Ok finally got a little bit of time to look at switching the coils. but when i looked at the wires i see three wires to each coil. but they are all coming out of one wire so i canot seperate them. the primary and secondary (white on one and black on the other) are soldered on so i woul dhave to cut and resolder the wires to just test???????? Do i really have to cut these wires off? the connectiosn look clean and i have since cleaned the grounds for them for now.. I am havin some attery issues (not hold charge very well) I tok the battery out last week put it on my bench put the tricle charge on it. once it showed ready (2amp charge) left it on the bench. connected again today after checking coils. tried to crank engine tried to turn over but after trying to start 3 times battery was struggling. side level on battery looks good???

thanks folks.
Pround new Papa of a baby girl. time off with mommy and new baby with some time to do some work between feedings.. Goal of putting bike on the road in the spring...

[Missile99]

First of all, congratulations on your baby girl. How awesome. Enjoy your time off.

I don't know what your 3rd wire could be unless someone ran a new power wire and left the old one in place. What colors of wire?

As long as the coils are getting good voltage you should be able to switch primary wires at the connection coming from the ignitor. Unplug the ignitor and grab a handful of jumper wires. Switch only the two coil wires at the coil side connector.

Otherwise, just cut the wire at the harness end, crimp on some insulated spades and switch that way. With Dyna coils you can unscrew primary leads at the coil and switch very easily, but I suspect yours don't have that option.

[Big Red]

ok so i looked at the wiring there is only two wires to the coils the third seems to be either a ground or just a support to keep the others in place. but beofre i was going to swap them i figured i would change the oil, fuel and other things so i could do everthing fresh once the coils were checked. So drained the oil and found the plug was stripped. started looking into options for repair. (self tapping plug, piggy back, heli coil etc.etc.) went to my local shop but they have no piggy back plugs that fit or oversize ones. so i started to look into takig the pan off. so need to get the pipes off to get at the pan.. UH OH exhaust flange bolts? first one out fine.next bent, next two snapped, one was already snapped and the last one i haen't touched yet (to scared).. so now i need to find a piggy back drain plug that works? and to figure out how to get the snapped bolts out/ new bolts.. In Canada or can be shipped to canada.

oh crap the problems keep pilling up but i am learning lots from this site and from you folks that help out a newbie like me.
Thanks again.

[Missile99]

Well that sucks Big Red. I have heard a lot of good on using oversize drain plugs if you plan on leaving the pan bolted up. It's too bad it won't come off without removing the exhaust. I was real lucky. There was clearance to take the pan off on mine. If you do plan on removing the pan I suggest taking it to a local machine shop and having them put in a TimeSert or NAPA equivalent. For me it was $35 and worth the peace of mind.

If you have time to kill then soak the header bolts in PB/JB80/Marvel for a week. Use a left handed drill bit and lots of patience. You might even try using the Loctite Freeze and Release aerosol to help. It's available at parts stores here. Dont' know what you have available to you there. There are people here with much more experience dealing with this problem that might offer up some more solutions. I dread this crap. Good luck. And patience.

[Big Red]

Ok so far i have used the oversized self tap drain plug and works great. (note to self do not over tighten)

as for the snapped bolts no movment yet. been spraying them everyday for a week then tried the left handed drill bit and nothing kept spinning not catching anything to pull it out. going to seek professional help on these but enough of the bolts are intact one one each pipe to keep the pipes on. So i will get back to working on the timing firing issues soon. need tog et a new oil filter now (actually a few) Good place for filters?

[Missile99]

You might still want to check into that Loctite Freeze stuff. I have a co-worker that used it or something similar and said it worked great. Maybe use the freeze stuff then spray some more penetrating oil in there. If it works you'll save good money from having to get those stuck bolts professionally taken out.

I now order a couple Suzuki filters and new cover o-ring from G&S Suzuki. I got ripped off at what was my local store; it costs more getting them here than ordering online at G&S with shipping. Go figure.

[Big Red]

Ok so finally had some time over the long weekend.

Drained everything. replaced oil and filter, drained all the fuel from the tank and carbs.

put fresh oil and fuel in primed it up and after a little prsouading she fired right up. it deffinatly still needs a tune on the carbs but the RPMS are getting higher now and she can drive. throttle is slow to respond but i hope that is cleared up with a carb tune-up.

So it seems the misfiring/no firing of 2 and 3 was the older gas. one simple little thing to cause such a huge problem.

I have a buddy that is good with snapped bolts so once i have it tuned i will drive it over there to get his help.

now just waiting on another buddy to get my hands on a carb tune.

edit: just went for a ride it seems like #2 is no firing but the rest are firing now (#1 HOT, #2warm, #3 hot, #4 Hot) checked plugs (brand new started once) before the ride #1,3,4 black #2 spot less. Thinking the #2 carb got gumed up with he bad gas/something, so i think it might be time to do and carb clean again. an other ideas?