Head gasket/ Loctite.

[spaytons]

I replaced the head gasket and read in another thread a recommendation to tighten the bolts and then give it another 1/4 turn for a proper torque. (I don't have a torque wrench.) Well that didn't work, 3 of them loosened up. Suggestions?
Anyone ever use loctite on these? On my 69 triumph this old mechanic back in KC told me to use the red stuff and not the blue. (if I remember correctly)

[Steve]

I replaced the head gasket and read in another thread a recommendation to tighten the bolts and then give it another 1/4 turn for a proper torque. (I don't have a torque wrench.) Well that didn't work, 3 of them loosened up. Suggestions?

Just one.

GET A TORQUE WRENCH.

.

[spaytons]

Just one.

GET A TORQUE WRENCH.

.

Awwwww. Do I gotta?

[almarconi]

You don't want to use red loctite on head bolts. A drop of blue maybe. I don't use anything but a torque wrench and have not had any problems.

[Nessism]

Loctite should not be used on those nuts. The reason the bolts loosened is because the gaskets have compressed, not because the nuts spun. Get a torque wrench...or not and wait for the leak. If you used an aftermarket Athena gasket kit, with green gaskets, a leak is inevitable so get ready to redo the job.

[spaytons]

Loctite should not be used on those nuts. The reason the bolts loosened is because the gaskets have compressed, not because the nuts spun. Get a torque wrench...or not and wait for the leak. If you used an aftermarket Athena gasket kit, with green gaskets, a leak is inevitable so get ready to redo the job.

I don't know what kind it was got it from a local shop. Its dark grey.
Here's the thread I was reading about the pros and cons of a torque wrench on the head.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=192420&highlight=torque+head+gasket

[bbjumper]

Maintenance manuals for these bikes have torque specifications for the engine for a reason, they also recommend rechecking torque after 600 miles. You can buy a good torque wrench for under a hundred bucks, how much will it cost to for a redo? I really enjoy working on my bike but having to do the same job twice is practice I don't need.

Just sayin

[stucknarut]

I'm in the middle of a gasket replacement. Question for you guys: the kit includes 4 smaller gaskets that go around the head bolts in the corner. Do they go under or on top of the head gasket?

If the gasket kit I bought was the Athena green paper one, what are the opinions on copper gasket sealant?

[almarconi]

If its a gray paste, its probably antiseize. Could also be gray rtv. I'm not aware of a gray loctite threadlocker.

[Nessism]

I don't know what kind it was got it from a local shop. Its dark grey.
Here's the thread I was reading about the pros and cons of a torque wrench on the head.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ue+head+gasket

That thread is for the valve cover gasket. Totally different than the head gasket. You don't need a torque wrench when replacing a valve cover gasket, but you do when torquing a cylinder head.

A beam style torque wrench can be had for $30.

[Nessism]

I'm in the middle of a gasket replacement. Question for you guys: the kit includes 4 smaller gaskets that go around the head bolts in the corner. Do they go under or on top of the head gasket?

If the gasket kit I bought was the Athena green paper one, what are the opinions on copper gasket sealant?

I strongly advise you to stop your build and get better gaskets. At minimum, get an OEM base gasket as the green crap Athena uses can't take the cylinder head clamp load and you WILL get a leak.

[Steve]

IHere's the thread I was reading about the pros and cons of a torque wrench on the head.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ue+head+gasket

The only "con" that I read in that thread was the standard caution about using the proper tool for the job.

Not sure about the claim that "torque wrenches are only accurate in the middle third of their range", but I am not fond of trusting them near the upper an lower limits of their range. For that reason, you really need at least two wrenches, one to do the smaller bolts that can be measured in inch-pounds and the larger ones that are in foot pounds. Yeah, the smaller bolts are given specs in foot-pounds, too, but their specs, usually in the 5-8 foot-pound range, is better-served by an inch-pound wrench that covers the 60-96 inch-pound equivalents.

Some may questin the overall accuracy of a Harbor Freight torque wrench, but I have a feeling that it will probably be more accurate than an uneducated guess or "tighten it then add 1/4 turn".

By the way, how much do you tighten it before adding that 1/4 turn?

.

[stucknarut]

I strongly advise you to stop your build and get better gaskets. At minimum, get an OEM base gasket as the green crap Athena uses can't take the cylinder head clamp load and you WILL get a leak.

Ok, I'll look for a new base gasket before I get much further, I wasn't impressed with the flimsy Athena gasket to be honest, and I've already found it leaks around the left side case. Does the OEM base gasket still come with the metal rings? The parts fiche at Boulevard Suzuki wasn't clear.

Can anyone answer my original question on those rubber corner gaskets?

And fyi to the original thread owner, as payback for hijacking your thread: if you don't want to buy a HF torque wrench, you can rent one for free at Autozone (you pay but get refunded).

[spaytons]

That thread is for the valve cover gasket. Totally different than the head gasket. You don't need a torque wrench when replacing a valve cover gasket, but you do when torquing a cylinder head.

A beam style torque wrench can be had for $30.

Sorry, my fault. Valve gasket is what I'm working on. Thats what I get for posting before morning tea. I have a beam style but feel it would be to much on those bolts.

[spaytons]

By the way, how much do you tighten it before adding that 1/4 turn?

.

Got them snug and then the 1/4.