Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

gs1100g top end

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    gs1100g top end

    Hey guys,
    I got my gs1100gk barn find completely torn dwon. While I am figuring out a tank and seat arrangement I thought I would get the motor squared away.
    I already did the carbs, and had it running. NO bad noise, no smoke, but plenty oil all over the head.
    When I pulled the cam cover I was amazed at how clean it is. it looks factory new inside, no tan oi color, bright and shiney inside, and not even a hint of wear on the shims, or the cams. Chain looks great guides intact.
    So.....
    It's so nice I want to freshen up the valves. They are dirty, and the exhaust ports look horrible, but I think will clean and lap to near perfect, I have new stem seals.
    I think I want to do the base gasket too.
    if the cylinders are perfect I may want to just clean the pistons and put new rings.

    Anybody recomend a seller for engine parts?
    IS there somewhere Online I can get a copy of the manual?

    #2
    Online manual may or may not be available through the bikecliff site. Clymers has a manual for the bike and factory manuals show up on ebay time to time.

    Oem parts are widely available. Some through z1enterprises, G&S suzuki, and Boulevard suzuki.

    Comment


      #3
      Cliff added my GS1100G manual several month's ago.
      Check his site for a free factory manual.

      Eric

      Comment


        #4
        Alright! Thanx guys.
        I got a cliff's manual, and it is amazing how goodt he top end is. but I got low compression. So I am going to pull the head and jugs and hopefully just put new rings, clean and lap the valves, and new gaskets.

        Comment


          #5
          It's common for engines that have been sitting to have lower compression. I'd do a valve adjustment and go ride the heck out of it to reseat those rings.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            chef, I think you are right on the money. I'd certainly put some miles on it first before deciding to tear down the top end.

            Comment


              #7
              Agree. And there is always crud on the valves. It's 100% normal. Remove it and it will be back in short order. Run some Seafoam for a few tanks if you are worried but I wouldn't take the engine apart for that. Regarding the compression, have you adjusted the valves yet? Please tell us you are not checking compression before adjusting the valves.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                All good advise, except for one thing,
                the bike is in about 106 pieces.
                I'm gonna pull the head, I've got a little leakage around the head gasket, just a little.
                The valves are all adjusted fine. I pulled the t chain tensioner to figure that out, and reinstalled it just to make sure the chain would tighten up right and it did with just a little bit of adjustment left on the tensioner.
                so hopefully the head will be off today, and I will cover the pistons with tranny fluid and see if it leaks down, and go from there.

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you pull the head you might as well pull the cylinder block and do everything you outlined.
                  Best of luck.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X