Cold starting at 60 degrees

[tkent02]

Did you clean the fuel passages in the float bowls? The one that supplies the choke with fuel?

Did you clean the air passages in the carburetor body that supply air to the choke?
Something isn't right with your choke, it's hard to tell what it is from here.

I will guess you probably didn't dip the carburetors at all.

The getting tight every turn of the engine, that's called compression. It's a good thing.

[overboostin]

I did dip the carbs but I'll recheck the bowl passages.

Compression even with no plugs in?

[tkent02]

I did dip the carbs but I'll recheck the bowl passages.

Compression even with no plugs in?

No, that's not it. How tight is it? Is it really hard to turn or just slightly tighter?

[overboostin]

It's not super hard to turn but it's definitely noticeable with more force needing to be applied.

[tom203]

Choke doesn't seem to do much for me. Sometimes if it starts cold and is idling low ill pull the choke and it'll stall.

I think the little hole at bottom of fuel bowl ( and tube going up bowl side) that feeds choke circuit is likely blocked on one or more carbs. Pulling up "choke" then just supplies air and not enough fuel. Typically on mine, during a cold start, adding more "choke" causes revs to jump up.

[overboostin]

I think the little hole at bottom of fuel bowl ( and tube going up bowl side) that feeds choke circuit is likely blocked on one or more carbs. Pulling up "choke" then just supplies air and not enough fuel. Typically on mine, during a cold start, adding more "choke" causes revs to jump up.

Ok cool ill pull off the carbs and check that tonight.

Anyone have any idea about the motor rotation?

[tom203]

Ok cool ill pull off the carbs and check that tonight.

Anyone have any idea about the motor rotation?

I hope I get that excited when my carb pulling days arrive!
Since this bike has been running ok, I'd ignore the "resistance" issue- plain bearing crank might feel "lumpy" without its oil cushion.

[bellucci]

Hold up there pilgrim... You said compression without the plugs in...If the starter is having a tough time spinning with no plugs, We have a problem... This was said about 6 posts ago. I am sure I read it wrong... but it sounds like electrical also. And I am no electrician. Just so we don't steer him wrong...
Curt

P.S. What I saw was in post #17... Tkent was on that track way before me... I'll stop babbling now...

[bwringer]

For the record, a GS should start instantly in pretty any temperature. These engines are not "cold blooded", whatever that means.

My personal record is 0 F.

Fork oil gets REALLY thick below about 20 F. But the bike ran great.

[Steve]

OK, I will take a stab at explaining your crank's resistance "issue".

The crankshaft is a "flat" crank, meaning that all the throws are in a flat plane. With #1 at TDC (top dead center), #4 will also be at TDC, while #2 and #3 will be a BDC (bottom dead center). With the pistons in these positions, the crank will be able to move several degrees (40 or 50 or so) and the pistons won't move very far at all, because the crank throws are at the top and bottom. Now, rotate the crank about 90 degrees, and ALL the pistons will be moving as fast as they can, because the crank throws are perpendicular to the direction of piston travel. This will show up as "increased resistance" as you turn the crank. Turn the crank another 90 degrees, #1 and #4 will be at BDC, #2 and #3 will be at TDC and rotation will be easier.

Does that make more sense now?

Oh, forgot to add: this is normal. If you don't feel that resistance, you have other problems.

.

[bellucci]

It makes perfect sense to me... well elucidated...
Curt

[overboostin]

great explanation, thanks!

[overboostin]

cleaned the carbs again and i'm adjusting those few tight valves tomorrow. hopefully it fixes things up.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It has to open and close those valves... If you continue to have problems consider a new battery