any help would be appreciated
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disconnect pistons from rods
ok silly but quick question...how do the wrist pins come out in the 850 motors..
any help would be appreciated
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Originally posted by gs850cafe View Postok silly but quick question...how do the wrist pins come out in the 850 motors..
any help would be appreciated
You can make an extractor by using a length of threaded rod or a long bolt, a tube that is slightly larger in diameter than the wrist pin bore, some washers and 2 nuts. The flats on the bolt head or a nut (if using the threaded rod) should be slightly smaller than the pin bore, so it can be drawn through the bore without damaging it.
Enjoy!:) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................
GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold
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slyone
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Unless the wrist pin or the rod bore itself is damaged, they just slide out by finger pressure...usually.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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I've usually needed to make an extractor from some 1/4" threaded rod, some washers, nuts, etc. It doesn't take much force, but it's almost always more than you can develop with your fingers.
All the manuals are very clear and precise in the instructions for this. I would strongly suggest obtaining one...1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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As chuck suggests, you can usually just tap out the pin. Just don't hammer on the thing if it's stuck. I've rebuilt a few different GS engines and never used any special tools to get the pins out.Ed
To measure is to know.
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MisterCinders
I tapped mine out with a smaller deep socket or socket extension. Just pick one that is smaller than the pin and the circlip, like an 8mm deep socket IIRC. A few taps on that, and the pin should move out. Once it starts to slide, finger pressure will finish the job. If it snags at the end, give it a few more gentle taps.
HTH
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If you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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MisterCinders
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostIf you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.
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Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostIf you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.
ask me why i have a pin puller now...yep, bent 1 of 4 rods on an 1100 years ago.
FYI
wrist pins can and will gall in the small end of the rod....no pushing it out without force/puller.
if you take enough engines apart a person will find these quite often.
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Originally posted by blowerbike View Postrods are designed to go up and down not side to side.
ask me why i have a pin puller now...yep, bent 1 of 4 rods on an 1100 years ago.
FYI
wrist pins can and will gall in the small end of the rod....no pushing it out without force/puller.
if you take enough engines apart a person will find these quite often.
High mileage engines often have pin galling and a build up of baked on oil/gunge to prevent finger pressure removal.:) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................
GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg
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Just took down the 78 750 that had just over 48,000 original and had never been into before. Only one was sticky and a slight tap with a brass drift had it out with no fuss...the other 3 slid out woth a push of the finger. We found some of the factory case sealer chips in the oil galleys though. Other than that it was as easy as that.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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gs850cafe
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