gs750e cam

[mits6dr5]

i went to do a valve adjustment and this is what i found when i took the valve cover off and i found that my valves were incredibly tight. enough that the valves are stuck open. my last adjustment was at the beginning of the season about 6000k ago. does anyone know if i can run the engine at this point or am i going to destroy the cam and followers. thx for any help you can offer. the intake cam is perfectly fine, its only the exhaust side that has issues. you can feel the wear marks if you run your finger nail over it as well.

[Nessism]

You can run the engine and it won't hurt the cams or followers, but the valves and cylinder head valve seats will burn (more than they already are).

I'm confused as to why you are posting this instead of just adjusting the valves and eliminating the concern?

[OLDENUFF]

6000k isn't enuff for them to tighten that much. Maybe your last adjustment was wrong or something else is going on. Burnt valves maybe?

[chef1366]

Those cams are beginning to wear through the chrome type coating. They will wear and then wear the rocker pads. How do the pads look? If you were wearing cam lobes and pads you would have loose valve adjustments. For the sixteen valve 750 I'd put in at the very least an overhead oiler on the exhaust cam. Those engines eat them for breakfast.
For you to have tight clearances after such a short time after an adjustment I'd check the valve seats and the actual valves themselves. They may be hammered.

[Nessism]

Yup, that model GS was the only one that wasn't bullet proof. Low oil pressure, or just bad flow. Suzuki has a service mod to shim the oil pressure relief spring. The guys in Australia had details on how much - .060" I think.

[gearhead13]

When I did my 4 valve 750, I found there was an oil restrictor in the block to limit flow to the head. It could be drilled bigger for more oil to the head. Those split exhaust rockers on the 750 suck. I used two sets of intake rockers and an 1100 exhaust cam.
I posted the fiche image in this thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=181353&page=2

[mits6dr5]

valve train

thanks for all the info guys, surprised how much there is out there. i readjusted all of the valves to the book clearance of .005, rechecked and readjusted at least 5 times (lost count). my new cover gasket finally arrived today and i installed tonight... did an oil change at the same time and started it up. i heard a very loud clacking sound when the engine fired up, before i started it, i cranked the engine until i got oil pressure. i ran the engine a few times for a about 30 seconds each time hoping it was an oil flow problem but it has not got any quieter. i'm thinking a valve or two with excess clearance (although i'm not sure how that could be). But tomorrow i guess i will take it apart again and see if there is anything loose or obvious... starting to really worry about engine damage. still pretty new to valves and valve train. thanks for all your help guys, feel like throwing a guess out there?

[Mekanix]

where did you take your measurment?

if its between the valve stem and screws your fine.

If you measured 0.005 between the cam and rocker then you will have 1.5 x 0.005 between the valve stem and screw.

[mits6dr5]

where did you take your measurment?

if its between the valve stem and screws your fine.

If you measured 0.005 between the cam and rocker then you will have 1.5 x 0.005 between the valve stem and screw.

when i put the feeler gauge into the gap between the valve and the screw, how much resistance should there be when inserting or pulling out. i'm thinking i may have them a tad bit too loose. when i did them before i didn't really have any resistance to speak of. just trying to get by for the time being but as of now the bike has a hard time starting which has also changed for the worse in the time that it's been back together.

[mrbill5491]

when i put the feeler gauge into the gap between the valve and the screw, how much resistance should there be when inserting or pulling out. i'm thinking i may have them a tad bit too loose. when i did them before i didn't really have any resistance to speak of. just trying to get by for the time being but as of now the bike has a hard time starting which has also changed for the worse in the time that it's been back together.

You want just enough resistance to where the feeler gauge has some drag coming out.

[mits6dr5]

thx, i will recheck them.

[Mekanix]

Tight enough so that the next thou higher feeler gauge wont fit through but the one you want does fit through with a little dragging.

IF the next one or two up fits then keep adjusting.

On mine to start off with I put the gauge in and tighten the screw down lightly until it touches the gauge just as a starting point. Usually the gauge slides out and the next size up doesn't fit.

[Spyder]

Unfortunately the 16 valve 750 engine is NOT bullit proof like the it's brethren engines. The valve train is weak at best... This happened to me within 2000 miles of a 4x checked valve adjustment. It started to tick really soft, and like an a$$ I thought it was "the cam walk". You want to make extra sure everything is PERFECT before putting serious mileage to it.


The amazing this is that I've since readjusted, and have put 5000 miles on it since I've discovered this issue. And it runs great and doesn't make a sound...