Rear wheel not turning freely

[MikeS]

Last few days I've checked my tires a couple times thinking one was going flat - something felt weird. Last night getting on the bike to do my cat rounds I felt the weirdness again and put it on the centerstand in neutral. The real wheel is turning with resistance, like molasses is in the differential.

Today I've got food poisoning I think so have not gone out to check fluids or see what is causing this. Anybody have this happen to them? What did it turn out to be?

My new (82) 850G has about 23K on it now. Last tire change the gold driven gear looked fine although even if it were failing it wouldn't cause the problem I currently have. I'm suspecting a lack of lubrication somewhere along the line - transmission, driveshaft, differential.

Thanks for any ideas,

Mike

[blowerbike]

beat on the rear caliper with a plastic hammer and see if it rolls easier..
if it doesn't then look into the drive line for the resistance.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The shaft drives don't really turn very freely, even in neutral. But make sure your rear brakes are not binding. You can change the oil in the final drive unit, that may help.

When you had the rear wheel off, did you lubricate the drive splines with Honda Moly 60 paste or similar? The lubricant for the rear drive splines needs to have a very high moly content. Regular axle grease just won't do.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jwhelan65]

As mentioned above it sounds like your rear caliper is hanging up. Try to spread the calipers away from the disc and than take it for ride and only use the front brakes. Throw it back up on he center stand, spin the wheel and press the rear brake pedal and see if the pads stay compressed to the disc. If so it is time to tear down the system.

[MikeS]

I didn't think to check the caliper . . . too simple an explanation for a simple mind like mine. Will do.

The rear-end grease is what my tire guy uses and I questioned him about the quality some time back. I went with what he told me but next tire change I'll take some Honda Moly 60 with me. He only does wheels and tires and has been doing it for a long time so I would think he's using something good. I don't remember what he said now but will follow up on this.

The rotation is really stiff - stiff enough to notice immediately when driving slow or backing out of driveway using feet.

If this turns out to be a brake problem I probably don't have any pads left since this went on for a couple days - I either ignored it or thought it might be a low tire or one going flat. The whole feel of the bike at slow speed is very different.

I'll report back on the problem, whatever it is. Sounds like I might be rebuilding my rear caliper once I stop getting dizzy when I stand up.

Thanks,

Mike

[tkent02]

If the brake is getting hot don't ride it, it can lock up even if you don't touch the brake.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It sounds normal for a shafty

[tkent02]

The brake getting hot without being used is not normal.

[hjfisk]

It sounds normal for a shafty

If everything is the way it should be a shafty does not roll that much harder than a chain drive bike.

[MikeS]

It was the brake caliper hanging up and no . . . once I realized I had a problem I stopped riding the bike. I don't want to have to replace any rotors just yet.

I took the pads out and they are worn down to and past the shoulder. I'll get some new pads right away but meantime I cleaned and lubricated everything and pushed the piston in and out (full travel, to loosen it up) a few times, wire brushed the pads and put them back in until I get some new ones.

How do I know what brake fluid I have? I got the bike with full reservoirs and haven't added any fluid in the three years I've had the bike. In the book and on the reservoir caps it warns about mixing glycol-based fluids with petroleum or silicone-based fluid but I can't assume I have the former just because it's what it is supposed to have. On my plane's brakes I have red hydraulic fluid for brake fluid but what's in my bike reservoirs is a brownish fluid. I'll see if I can find the info on the previous owner and give him a call and see what he put in. I don't need to add any until I bleed and replace the old fluid, but I'm just curious. How do you tell what's already in the system if you don't know?

Anyway, I'm relieved that I don't have a driveline problem but this reminds me I've got some maintenance overdue - transmission and rear-end fluid changes and valve adjustment.

I tend to use my rear brake a lot - I always lead with the rear and give my rear brake more emphasis than I think many riders do - so these pads were probably worn past the shoulder and since my brake pedal shaft & spring were all gummed up from not being cleaned and lubed in a long time I think the return spring was not returning the pedal to normal position. The excessive pad wear was causing the pedal to go down further than it had been going and it was sticking - that's my theory anyway. Since cleaning things up I haven't ridden the bike yet, just checked it out on the centerstand. It seems to be working fine now.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I don't check in to the GS forums that much but whenever I do the responses are always fast and helpful. The look of the site is improved too. What a fantastic resource for those who choose to continue to ride the "old iron."

Mike

[hjfisk]

You should flush your brake fluids every couple years. It is dark colored because of moisture in it. [Brake fluid attracts moisture]

[Nessism]

I wouldn't ride the bike again until you remove the piston and clean out all the corrosion. You should replace the old crusty rubber brake line too, assuming you haven't replaced it already. Brakes are nothing to F*ck around with. Your life could end if the brakes lock up at the wrong moment. Please be safe.

[tkent02]

If the fluid has turned brown there is too much water, there is certain to be rust as in the picture above.... A tiny particle of rust blocking the return port can cause the brake to lock up.
The favoring the rear brake is really a dangerous habit, too.

[jwhelan65]

I would replace everything as Ed mentioned, it may seem cumbersome but there is no better piece of mine than when it is done right.

[blowerbike]

if a person changed it over to dot 5 silicone fluid then these problems would never happen....EVER.
dot 3 and 4 draws moisture and is just really nasty shlt.
a little food for thought..............

oh hell...joe knows this..YOUR HONDA IS DOT 5 JOE!
the poor honda would sit over a winter and then it wouldn't roll...that got old so i changed it over for my brother.
never happened sense.