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GS1000E Rotor Removal

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    #31
    you have been saying all along that you have a nut on the end,now you are saying its a bolt? if it is a bolt then your removal tool will work fine.
    post up a pic so we can all see and clarify your situation
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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      #32
      Sorry for the confusion, it is definately a bolt retaining the rotor. Here is the latest my friends. I managed to borrow an electric impact gun from a local firm. Managed to get the rotor bolt undone (lots of signs of thread lock on the bolt) and would you believe the rotor popped off at the same time! so didn't the puller. Have included pictures. Found all three of the allen screws loose and the top of their threads destroyed.



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        #33
        Would you suggest that I go for a starter clutch repair kit?. Not sure what I should be checking for on the rollers and pushers, the springs are different lengths
        Last edited by Guest; 11-22-2012, 06:39 PM.

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          #34
          yep, get the kit, you know it will all be good then
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment


            #35
            Will do. Which type of loctite do you use on the 3 starter clutch retaining screws and the rotor bolt please?

            and do you use any loctite on the rotor taper when refitting the rotor, if so is the type of loctite to be used different for this purpose as compared to the type used for thread lock

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              #36
              the rotor should be a very tight fit on the crank, but as you said, it just popped right off. clean it up,and the end of the crank and slide the rotor on, it should grab to a tight fit,enough to get some movement on the crank without even tightening the bolt up. if it doesn't then lap it on to the crank using some fine valve grinding paste until you get a good snug fit on the crank. loctite is not really neccesary unless the crank or rotor surface is damaged,worn or pitted
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #37
                Many thanks, which Loctite grade do you guys use for threadlocking the rotor bolt

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                  #38
                  Blue at least

                  Once you're done tightening it up, it will not have to come apart for another 4 decades
                  1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                  1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                  1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                  1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                  1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                  1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                  2007 DRz 400S
                  1999 ATK 490ES
                  1994 DR 350SES

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                    #39
                    If it ever comes loose again, let me know. I had mine come loose 4 times in one season. I had a local welder tack it together. 50 runs at the track and no problem. I was actually breaking the 3 little bolts. I hope yours holds together for you... And I used red loctite to hold the bolts.
                    Curt
                    sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On

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                      #40
                      Many thanks for your advice Mr T and Bellucci (Curt), its great to be among friends
                      Last edited by Guest; 11-24-2012, 01:50 PM.

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                        #41
                        I am a bit concerned, cleaned the crankshaft end and also the internal taper of the rotor and slid the rotor onto the crankshaft but Adrian mentioned that it should grab to a tight fit,enough to get some movement on the crank without even tightening the bolt. I can rotate the rotor with very little grab on the crankshaft. Is this okay?

                        If I replace the rotor bolt and tighten just with engine compression resistance and then loosen the bolt I do need some help with the puller to remove.

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                          #42
                          you should be ok with that, i would just add a touch of loctite bearing fit on the crank just for extra piece of mind
                          1978 GS1085.

                          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Will do my friend

                            Comment


                              #44
                              What tool do you guys use for restraining the rotor to get the rotor bolt fully torqued down and where would I be able to get one from.

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                                #45
                                use the same method as used in removing it. stick it in 5th gear, get someone to stand hard on the rear brake, that should be enough to hold it
                                1978 GS1085.

                                Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                                Comment

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