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    Spark plug gap

    Just installed new HD valve springs on my 83 GS1100E for my web 168 camshaft I putting new spark plugs. What should I gap the plug at.

    #2
    The stock gap is 0.6-0.7mm, or 0.024-0.028".

    Probably no reason why that won't work for your bike.

    .
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      #3
      yep ,i allways gap my plugs at 25thou,just 'cos it's easy to remember.

      Comment


        #4
        Spark plugs

        Thanks for the update but now my intake cam broke in half when I was tighting down. What happen?????????????

        Comment


          #5
          Sucks man. Sorry.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            Originally posted by enelson2047 View Post
            Thanks for the update but now my intake cam broke in half when I was tighting down. What happen?????????????
            Apparently the cam must of had a fracture in it? Lucky it broke now then at 8,000 rpm.
            sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
            1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
            2015 CAN AM RTS


            Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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              #7
              Originally posted by enelson2047 View Post
              Thanks for the update but now my intake cam broke in half when I was tighting down. What happen?????????????
              Did you tighten the caps bit-by-bit in the correct sequence? Some of the cam lobes will be pointing down onto the valves, and with your new HD valve springs, this causes great resistance. Tightening the cam down too much at a time on one side against this "resistance" or in the wrong sequence can cause the cam to "bend" and break.
              1981 GS850G "Blue Magic" (Bike Of The Month April 2009)

              1981 GS1000G "Leo" (Bike Of The Month August 2023)

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                #8
                Service manual for the 8V engines calls for clamping the cam down into the head using vice grips before the caps are installed. This reduces stress on the cap hold down bolt threads and assures there isn't any physical blockage, such between the valves and pistons, before you bolt down the caps. My guess is as Steve suggests: maybe the cam timing is off and the valves were hitting the pistons. In addition to your broken cam you could have bent valves.

                While you were tightening the cam bearing cap bolts, did the bolts tighten with low effort? Did the caps seat down easily or did you have to really torque the bolts? I'm surprised you didn't strip out the cap thread before the cam broke.
                Last edited by Nessism; 12-10-2012, 04:29 PM.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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