Replacing cam chain tensioner gasket

[Guest]

Just carrying out some winter maintenance on the 79 GS1000E. Have had a very slight weep from the camcahin tensioner gasket, which I am now looking at replacing. Just wondering exactly what I need to do to remove the tensioner and just replace the gasket, any help would be appreciated.

[tom203]

Before removal, you need to back off lock NUT on tensioner assembly and then tighten lock SCREW on plunger- this prevents plunger from falling out of assembly during removal.

But more importantly, when you reinstall tensioner after gasket replacement, you must back off lock screw (3/4 turn) and tighten lock nut- this lets the plunger push against the camchain as needed.
It's so simple, some folks get bewildered apparently.

[wally]

Check out Bwringer's helpful tutorial - very easy to do!

[azr]

There is also an o-ring in there, on the spring side. If you look at a parts fiche you'll see it. If you think you're going to have to replace that as well I would try loosening that part of the tensioner while it's still bolted to the block. Sometimes it is so stuck on there a vice will not hold it enough to loosen it. Usually with the carbs off you have more than enough room to get at it before you unbolt the tensioner from the block.

[chuck hahn]

When you go to reinstall it, depress the rod and lock it back with the set screw. Install and loosen the screw and the rod will seat against the guides. Now just bump the starter a bit to kinda settle things in good and then touch off the screw to the rod. Next, turn the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn and lock down the jam nut.

[Nessism]

Just to be safe, I suggest you put the bike at 1-4 TDC before removing the tensioner. After reinstalling, turn over the engine by hand and double check the cam timing to assure proper assembly. Oh, and needless to say, check those valve clearances if you haven't done so lately.

[Big T]

It's easiest to pull the carbs 1st, makes it much easier to get at the tensioner

Just follow the tutorial from there

[sedelen]

I was able to pull off my cam chain tensioner several times off my '82 GS1100E without much trouble and without taking the carbs off.
It was tight working in there though, I think the GS1000 would be about the same.


This was the left side that I worked from. A little tight I must say.


First I just lossened the lock nut and tightened the screw to hold the spring loaded adjusting bar in place. Then I used a combination wrench to break free the bolts, which are also slotted for a phillips screw driver and then it was just a matter of finding a screwdriver that would fit to unscrew the bolts. 5 minutes.
Heres' the tools I used. Not rocket science.

[tkent02]

On an 850 it might be easier to remove the air box and carbs, 5 minutes or so for that.
On a 1000E, no way.

Sedelen's method and tools make it easy.

[sedelen]

I just looked at my '79 GS1000E cam chain tensioner, and......... it may be a little tighter area to work in than my '82 GS1100e. I know I can get the bottom bolt without much difficulty, and I think I can get the top bolt eventually with a combination wrench, or probably quicker with one of those racheting speed wrenches, but...........
I'm not sure if once you get the bolts out you can back it out and down far enough to pull it, because there isn't alot of clearance between the back of the tensioner and the carbs, specifically the idle adjust screw.
It's just too close to call.

[tkent02]

Done it on a 750, and a 1000, the 1000 should be fine. Might have to unscrew the idle screw?

I think I remember having to unscrew the top bolt first while the lower one is still holding the tensioner in place made it easier to unscrew. That might have been a different engine.

[bwringer]

I've removed the tensioner (held in with two bolts) from a 78 GS1000 without removing the carbs. Wasn't too difficult.

The 850 uses a three bolt tensioner, and it's so easy to remove the carbs that there's no point to attempting to extract the tensioner without getting the carbs out of the way.

Also, FYI, the tensioner gasket rarely leaks. It's always the seal and o-rings.

[gs79]

Brilliant responses guys as usual, thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle these maintenance jobs

[gs79]

Do you guys use any sealant on the camchain tensioner gasket, or do you just fit dry? and presumably use loctite on the mounting bolts

[Agemax]

you do not need any sealant on the gasket, just make sure the surfaces are clean.
a dab of threadlock wont hurt but is not really necessary