Please help me understand and select chain and sprockets

[littleroot]

Those indicators mean nothing anyway.

I figured they were for safety so I don't get the axle too far out on the swingarm. I'm guessing as long as the swingarm is covered by the nuts/washers I'm good.

[tkent02]

No you can bring it all the way out safely as long as the chain isn't too worn.

[littleroot]

Mike a Z1 just replied after seeing this photo and said "The graduations on the swingarm is the true working range, but somewhere in the middle is ideal for the designed wheelbase of the bike"

Good info

[Joe Nardy]

As Tom said, try pulling the chain straight back away from the rear sprocket. If you are able to easily pull the chain away it is likely both the chain and sprocket are bad. With a new chain and sprocket you will barely be able to pull the chain away from the sprocket.

Joe

[sedelen]

I've been told by a couple people who looked at in real life that the chain is shot and I should replace the two sprockets, too. The chain is too loose, as well, I've been told as along the bottom return run I can pull it down with my finger about two inches.

Here is a picture of where I am on the adjuster on the swingarm. The labeled indicators are obvious but I'm not exactly sure what the indicator at the axle is telling me: could I have five more steps to go?

The labled indicators are for chain wear. Yours appears to be close to the middle from what I can see from your picture. The other marks are wheel alignment marks for your axle, they should match on both sides.

Do yourself a favor, go to BassCliffs site,
here's the link if you don't have it (at least keep it for future reference.)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Download the owners manual for the GS1100E.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1100E_Owners_Manual.pdf

Go to the chain adjustment page on page 42 where it shows the recommended chain slack at .8in.
Now go to page 43 and heed the caution where it says, "Never allow the drive chain slack to exceed 2 inches"

Personally .8 inch seems a little tight for me, I usually go at least 1 inch or a little more. Too tight of a chain only stretches them out quicker.

Once you got your chain properly adjusted and lubed, rotate it and check for binding, or tightness then looseness through it's rotation. Check for frozen links also, those are ones that don't want to swivel.

You may just have a chain that needs only adjusting, but........ we can't see your sprockets. If your sprockets are worn, the chain will ride up on them which causes your tight and loose tension as the wheel rotates.

[littleroot]

The labled indicators are for chain wear. Yours appears to be close to the middle from what I can see from your picture. The other marks are wheel alignment marks for your axle, they should match on both sides.

Do yourself a favor, go to BassCliffs site,
here's the link if you don't have it (at least keep it for future reference.)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Download the owners manual for the GS1100E.

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1100E_Owners_Manual.pdf

Go to the chain adjustment page on page 42 where it shows the recommended chain slack at .8in.
Now go to page 43 and heed the caution where it says, "Never allow the drive chain slack to exceed 2 inches"

Personally .8 inch seems a little tight for me, I usually go at least 1 inch or a little more. Too tight of a chain only stretches them out quicker.

Once you got your chain properly adjusted and lubed, rotate it and check for binding, or tightness then looseness through it's rotation. Check for frozen links also, those are ones that don't want to swivel.

You may just have a chain that needs only adjusting, but........ we can't see your sprockets. If your sprockets are worn, the chain will ride up on them which causes your tight and loose tension as the wheel rotates.

Thanks, Steve. I did grab those from Bikecliff just have not had time to digest all and of course I like getting help from the great people here

[littleroot]

Sprockets and chain look OK to me

I gave the chain a good cleaning and it looks fine as far as I can tell. It cleaned up really nice and the sprockets look good, not even the slightest bit of hook. I am holding off any change for now. I just put new tires on her and all is good.

As for the adjustment I could pull the chain off the sprocket a bit and I fixed that. I was surprised that a little goes a long way: I moved it a full hash mark and that was too tight so I had to back it off a bit. Thanks everyone for your help.
-Bob

[sedelen]

I gave the chain a good cleaning and it looks fine as far as I can tell. It cleaned up really nice and the sprockets look good, not even the slightest bit of hook. I am holding off any change for now. I just put new tires on her and all is good.

As for the adjustment I could pull the chain off the sprocket a bit and I fixed that. I was surprised that a little goes a long way: I moved it a full hash mark and that was too tight so I had to back it off a bit. Thanks everyone for your help.
-Bob

I love happy endings!
And it's so true, you don't have to adjust it much to take up alot of slack.
If you do err, err on the side of looseness rather than tightness.

[littleroot]

I love happy endings!
And it's so true, you don't have to adjust it much to take up alot of slack.
If you do err, err on the side of looseness rather than tightness.

Good to know. Will do, thanks again

[GateKeeper]

I gave the chain a good cleaning and it looks fine as far as I can tell. It cleaned up really nice and the sprockets look good, not even the slightest bit of hook. I am holding off any change for now. I just put new tires on her and all is good.

As for the adjustment I could pull the chain off the sprocket a bit and I fixed that. I was surprised that a little goes a long way: I moved it a full hash mark and that was too tight so I had to back it off a bit. Thanks everyone for your help.
-Bob

hopefully you used kerosene to clean up that chain....and after you cleaned it all up, you did oil/lube it back up right......

just making sure...

glad to hear it was useable, it can get pricey on just those 3 items...

.

[littleroot]

hopefully you used kerosene to clean up that chain....and after you cleaned it all up, you did oil/lube it back up right......

just making sure...

glad to hear it was useable, it can get pricey on just those 3 items...

.

I bought this stuff as it got good reviews on line and in the store. It really did clean it up - it looked brand new. If the link does not work the description is "MAXIMA Clean Up Air-Filter Cleaner and Chain/Sprocket Degreaser"

As for lube I used the PJ1 Blue can. This stuff is a lot thinner than I thought a chain lube should be. The stuff I use on bicycles is closer to the consistency of motor oil. I sprayed the PJ1 at the end of every pin (both sides) spraying downwards on the bottom, return run of the chain. Seemed to work well.

[Joe Nardy]

As for lube I used the PJ1 Blue can. This stuff is a lot thinner than I thought a chain lube should be. The stuff I use on bicycles is closer to the consistency of motor oil. I sprayed the PJ1 at the end of every pin (both sides) spraying downwards on the bottom, return run of the chain. Seemed to work well.

Chain lubes contain chemicals which allow it to spray thinly and freely but then evaporate to leave a thick, tacky lube behind. Feel the chain after a few minutes, it will not feel thin any more.

[littleroot]

Chain lubes contain chemicals which allow it to spray thinly and freely but then evaporate to leave a thick, tacky lube behind. Feel the chain after a few minutes, it will not feel thin any more.

Good to know! Thanks

[sedelen]

I bought this stuff as it got good reviews on line and in the store. It really did clean it up - it looked brand new. If the link does not work the description is "MAXIMA Clean Up Air-Filter Cleaner and Chain/Sprocket Degreaser"

As for lube I used the PJ1 Blue can. This stuff is a lot thinner than I thought a chain lube should be. The stuff I use on bicycles is closer to the consistency of motor oil. I sprayed the PJ1 at the end of every pin (both sides) spraying downwards on the bottom, return run of the chain. Seemed to work well.

I would probably not use that degreaser on that chain again. I would stick with kerosene. A heavy duty degreaser could take out the grease inside the O-rings and you'll find yourself needing a chain sooner than you otherwise would.
Kerosene is the recommended chain cleaner. Motor oil is the recommended lube, these are the manufacturers recommendations that is.
I got a new can of PJ1 on my shelf, I used it a couple of times and then I went back to motor oil.

[littleroot]

I would probably not use that degreaser on that chain again. I would stick with kerosene. A heavy duty degreaser could take out the grease inside the O-rings and you'll find yourself needing a chain sooner than you otherwise would.
Kerosene is the recommended chain cleaner. Motor oil is the recommended lube, these are the manufacturers recommendations that is.
I got a new can of PJ1 on my shelf, I used it a couple of times and then I went back to motor oil.

I have to say after using this cleaner a few times it seems to not do very much, doubt it is hurting the o-rings as it is advertised not to.

I want to try the kerosene, how do you apply it?