Erratic knocking noise at tickover 79 GS1000E

[Guest]

Just carried out some work on my GS1000, previously had a pronounced rattle at tickover. Removed the clutch cover and found the hub nut had come loose, removed the clutch and also had play in the backing springs. So had the clutchback modded with the Falicon heavy duty kit, with new hub nut and lock washer. Also removed the the starter rotor to checkout the starter clutch to find the three allen screws loose, so have fitted a full new starter kit. Carbs have been fully synched. The bike fires up first time I have noticed an erratic knocking noise which seems to disappear when the engine is revved, it is very hard to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from but it does sound to be a metallic knocking noise. I will get some video footage tomorrow, just thought I would ask for any pointers.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Could be cam end float A normal noise ?

[gs79]

Many thanks for the reply, will get a video tomorrow, but it does sound to be lower in the engine. Have read about spun bearings but don,t really understand what this means

[Agemax]

could be camchain, is the tensioner free and working ok?

[tatu]

you'll not get spun bearings with this engine, spun refers to when the shell bearing picks up on the shaft and spins in the casing.

[blowerbike]

Many thanks for the reply, will get a video tomorrow, but it does sound to be lower in the engine. Have read about spun bearings but don,t really understand what this means

no spun bearings on roller bearing engine's.

[gs79]

Thanks you for clearing up the understanding of spun bearings. I will checkout the cam chain tensioner to ensure it is working okay and report back.

[gs79]

What is the easiest way to check that the camchain tensioner is working okay please

[Agemax]

try this link mate,

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[gs79]

Cheers Adrian

[tkent02]

As a quick check, while it's idling, turn the big knob counterclockwise just a little bit. When the engine sound changes, let go of the knob. If the knob turns back to where it was, and the sound goes back to what it was, the tensioner is working. DO NOT turn the knob very far! Maybe 1/8 turn or so at the most! If you turn it too far, the chain can skip a few teeth, the valves can hit the pistons, life as we know it will come to a schreeching end. Listen as you turn the knob, you only want to go far enough for the engine sound to start to change.

And if your engine explodes, do not blame me! You turned the knob too far! I have been doing this for thirty years with no damage, so I know it works.

[gs79]

Thanks TK, got me a bit nervous on that one, think I will try the locknut and set screw method at TDC, my experience level is not so high my friend

[sedelen]

As a quick check, while it's idling, turn the big knob counterclockwise just a little bit. When the engine sound changes, let go of the knob. If the knob turns back to where it was, and the sound goes back to what it was, the tensioner is working. DO NOT turn the knob very far! Maybe 1/8 turn or so at the most! If you turn it too far, the chain can skip a few teeth, the valves can hit the pistons, life as we know it will come to a schreeching end. Listen as you turn the knob, you only want to go far enough for the engine sound to start to change.

And if your engine explodes, do not blame me! You turned the knob too far! I have been doing this for thirty years with no damage, so I know it works.

Altough I'm NOT suggesting this, I have done this also. It was when I owned my Skunk in the late 70's. Can't remember why I did it, but I turned it as far as a half turn, maybe more and let it spring back, several times on several occaisions. Didn't really give it a second thought. No ill effects, but knowing what I know now I consider myself lucky. Bulletproof Skunk! It ran great in spite of me.

[tkent02]

1/2 turn? Wow.

Yeah, I've never actually seen one hurt by doing this, just heard it is possible.

Don't really know, but I've done it just fine many times.

[chuck hahn]

Like Tom said...just enough to see if it starts ticking or not...if it does, then the rod is moving and working properly..and youll actually feel it. If it doesnt tick, then go to the left side of the bike and look under the carbs at the tensioner. Youll see a jam nut and the adjuster rod with a slot in it.

Loosen that jam nut and loosen the rod. Next, turn the adjuster IN until it touches off on the tensioner rod..now back it off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn and lock down the jam nut. Start the bike and repeat the twist the big knob on the right just a bit to see if the tensioner rod is working again.