Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Educate me on the clutch. Springs, plates, basket, etc.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Educate me on the clutch. Springs, plates, basket, etc.

    So my knowledge thus far: When I got my bike, the clutch was a damn hard pull. It was old and rusted, so after a few pulls got a little loose but nothing like what (I imagine) it should be. Many members report light clutches, a couple fingers or so if not even lighter. First thought, replace the cable.

    After I replaced the cable, the pull was the same. I was advised to try a cable luber, but I don't think that will help too much (although, I will be getting one regardless later on). I will, however, re-route the cable as that may be a factor. But I may need to change either the springs, plates, etc. or maybe all of it. I would like to know (or links would be better so you don't have to post an essay) the effect on say adding NOS springs, a (for example) street clutch from say EBC, new basket, etc.

    In summary
    SO: basket, springs, fibres, different (say) street clutch kits (ex: EBC), hard pull (your experience/fix), tips, performance gains with the clutch, GO!

    PS This is my 200th post
    Last edited by Guest; 02-06-2013, 12:04 AM.

    #2
    Just get all stock Suzuki stuff. Easy to pull, won't slip, lasts a long time, cheap.
    One of the few good deals anymore.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment


      #3
      If you still have a hard pull after changing the cable and checking the routing, there are only two items that I know of that might be causing it.

      1. "Heavy-duty" springs. Might be from EBC, might be from someone else. If you are running a basically stock bike on the street, stock springs will handle it just fine.

      2. Grooves in the basket. If you take the clutch apart, you will see that the steel disks have teeth that are on the inner edge, to drive the transmission shaft. The fiber disks have "fingers" around the outer edge, to engage the grooves in the basket, which is driven by the crank. If you look along those grooves (after removing all the disks) they should be perfectly smooth, not rippled. The discs can get trapped in those grooves, preventing smooth operation. If they are just barely rippled, you might be able to smoothe them out with a file, but you might just be better off replacing the basket.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        If you still have a hard pull after changing the cable and checking the routing, there are only two items that I know of that might be causing it.

        1. "Heavy-duty" springs. Might be from EBC, might be from someone else. If you are running a basically stock bike on the street, stock springs will handle it just fine.

        2. Grooves in the basket. If you take the clutch apart, you will see that the steel disks have teeth that are on the inner edge, to drive the transmission shaft. The fiber disks have "fingers" around the outer edge, to engage the grooves in the basket, which is driven by the crank. If you look along those grooves (after removing all the disks) they should be perfectly smooth, not rippled. The discs can get trapped in those grooves, preventing smooth operation. If they are just barely rippled, you might be able to smoothe them out with a file, but you might just be better off replacing the basket.

        .
        This picture makes the task seem a little daunting... But, so did buying a 30 year old motorcycle so farther down the rabbit hole I go!

        1. Agreed Steve. I had that thought bugging me since I replaced the cable. I will continue working on the easy stuff (brakes, lines, etc) for now until I get it running, and actually rideable which will most likely be a while. For now, I can deal with having it a hard pull and will get necessary tools/parts as money becomes available (i.e. plates, springs, basket if necessary).

        2. I will definitely be having this thread handy when I open up the basket. I will probably just replace those plates if I see anything amiss. Better to be happy then waste more time modifying a problem I could have remedied earlier when playing with the basket (hehe).


        Couple additional questions
        - What is the difference between the 2 clutch plates marked 12/13? If I were to take a stab at it, I'd say the inner/outer plate for each gear... Or I am so far off the mark, feel free to poke some fun
        - If possible, would changing the basket/backing plate springs make a difference? Or at that point I should just get a new basket? (Thank god Toasty has a 650g bottom end I can scavenge )

        Comment


          #5
          ^^Good topic. My clutch cable is a little tough too...but I tightened the adjuster on the handlebar and all is well.




          Ed
          GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
          GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
          GSX-R750Y (Sold)

          my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by GSXR7ED View Post
            ^^Good topic. My clutch cable is a little tough too...but I tightened the adjuster on the handlebar and all is well.




            Ed
            I tried from screwed all in and all the way out, no difference (old cable).
            Same test, same result (new cable).

            So, I have a feeling there may be EBC or similar in the clutch lurking behind the pressure plate.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Bonehead View Post

              So, I have a feeling there may be EBC or similar in the clutch lurking behind the pressure plate.
              Maybe, PO "improved" things with stiff springs as was said. #12 and #13 are the "drive" and the "driven" plates -reread Steve's post. My clutch still feels OK at 41 k - lubing and rerouting cable carefully between carbs is critical for decent pull. Plenty of these on ebay with less than 20k for cheap
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Bonehead View Post
                What is the difference between the 2 clutch plates marked 12/13? If I were to take a stab at it, I'd say the inner/outer plate for each gear...
                Very close.

                Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                #12 and #13 are the "drive" and the "driven" plates -reread Steve's post.
                Yep, #12 are the fiber disks, note the "fingers" on the outer edge that fit into the grooves in the basket. #13 are the steel disks, note the teeth on the inner edge that fit on the hub.

                For your convenience, here it the previous description:

                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                2. Grooves in the basket. If you take the clutch apart, you will see that the steel disks have teeth that are on the inner edge, to drive the transmission shaft. The fiber disks have "fingers" around the outer edge, to engage the grooves in the basket, which is driven by the crank.
                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  He probably used EBC springs....that's what makes your clutch super stiff.
                  To add fuel to the fire, he probably replaced all of the springs, instead of just doing half of them(like you're supposed to)...

                  I did exactly that with EBC's once....I had to ride home one-handed in the cold...the clutch was so bad, I tore my hand up.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X