Changing springs and clutch cable tips?

[Guest]

Changing springs and clutch cable 80GS1100E

Is there a how-to for this?

So like my GL can I just put the bike on the side stand and I should not spill as much as a half pint? I wonder if having the oil cooler on is going to impact that guestimate of spillage?

Clutch cable, six springs and gasket are ready. All OEM parts.

GASKET 11482-49202-H17

CLUTCH SPRINGS (6ct): 09440-19007

CLUTCH CABLE: 58200-45401


Bike needs to cool down as I was just riding and I have have to play taxi for my son right now. Back soon


Thanks for any tips/tricks

[1_v8_merc]

Changing springs and clutch cable 80GS1100E

Is there a how-to for this?

So like my GL can I just put the bike on the side stand and I should not spill as much as a half pint? I wonder if having the oil cooler on is going to impact that guestimate of spillage?

Clutch cable, six springs and gasket are ready. All OEM parts.

GASKET 11482-49202-H17

CLUTCH SPRINGS (6ct): 09440-19007

CLUTCH CABLE: 58200-45401


Bike needs to cool down as I was just riding and I have have to play taxi for my son right now. Back soon


Thanks for any tips/tricks

Springs take a matter of minutes. There's just 6 10mm bolts, in a circle. Each bolt has a washer and spring, you just pop 'em loose and spring comes out easy.
Sometimes you gotta be careful twisting the bolts back in, because the new springs are stiffer and have more resistance.

[koolaid_kid]

Yes, just lean it over on the sidestand. Be sure and have a pan underneath the cover "just in case".
Cable: just remove the seat and the tank and it should be accessible. Be sure and route the new one the same way as the old one. It crosses over the engine since the clutch lever is on the left but the clutch actuation is on the right.
I prefer to compare the lengths before installing the new cable. I have gotten cables the wrong length before. Loosen the adjuster on the clutch perch first, then on the engine. Install the opposite way, on the engine first then fine adjust with the clutch perch adjuster.

[littleroot]

Thanks guys. Sounds good. I'm thinking stone cold engine might be best for this but not sure. Oil would not be as runny is all I am thinking.

Also as it was suggested to only replace half of the springs do you have any tips for identifying them in case I later feel I should replace them all? I guess I could try scoring the top of the bolts.

Thanks again, guys.
-Bob

[tkent02]

Unless you are drag racing constantly, just go with all six stock springs. Heavier ones are no better, they just wear everything out quicker.

[chef1366]

I can put it on for you on Saturday when I'm there if you'd like.

[littleroot]

Unless you are drag racing constantly, just go with all six stock springs. Heavier ones are no better, they just wear everything out quicker.

These are OEM, stock.

I've heard from some to replace only half at a time and test

[chef1366]

These are OEM, stock.

I've heard from some to replace only half at a time and test

Just do them all if you have them.

[littleroot]

I can put it on for you on Saturday when I'm there if you'd like.

I was hoping to be done by then

Saturday I have a commitment with family from about 7:30 AM and I will not be free until late afternoon, about 4. Let me know if you might still be around.
Thanks

[mike_of_bbg]

I've heard from some to replace only half at a time and test

With stock springs that would not be necessary. Aftermarket springs are usually advertised as being 10% stiffer: by spring rate that may well be true, but they're also often longer and thus also have pre-load that is not considered in that 10%, so they get way harder to squeeze. If you replace all 6 springs with aftermarket springs, you might find yourself with one serious case of crab claw in your left hand!

With OEM springs, replace all six. It's not a bad idea to check the fibers and steels, but they tend to not wear out much - usually if there's a bit of slippage with OEM stuff, springs are all that is needed. If you don't check the steels/fibers, just replace one spring at a time.

One thing I found helpful when installing the new springs was to stuff some paper towel into the socket. That kept the bolt from sinking back in to the socket and made it easier to engage against the spring tension.

[littleroot]

Excellent thanks!

[littleroot]

Well the cable look like it is the right length so I took it off and removed all the bolts but it looks like the brake pedal might be in the way. Don't know yet because I cannot get the cover off! Wishing I had a rubber mallet at the moment...

Any tips before I drive a chisel in there?!

Dinner time, back soon

[littleroot]

Anything more I should remove before the over comes off?

[mike_of_bbg]

Any tips before I drive a chisel in there?!

How about, "don't drive a chisel in there!"

Take the oil filler cap out and try using a block of wood and tapping that lightly with your hammer away from the block. Steel contact by either your hammer or a chisel is not likely to be good for your clutch cover. Most likely the gasket is just hard and once it starts to go it will break all the way pretty easily.

[koolaid_kid]

Actually, I recommend putting the clutch actuation lever back on before removing the cover. Otherwise you may have issues getting it lined up correctly when re-installing the cover.
If you need to remove the brake pedal you will need to remove the footpeg, then the bolt on the brake pedal, then spread the gap just a bit, pull the pedal out and let it hang, possibly supported by a wire, coat hanger or twine.