79 GS750E Clutch Issue's

[barnbiketom]

make absolutely sure your clutch lever has free play. As components wear, the slack in the system is taken up and clutch slippage is the result.

as simple as this may seem. it is the starting point for any issue with the clutch.

[Nessism]

make absolutely sure your clutch lever has free play. As components wear, the slack in the system is taken up and clutch slippage is the result.

as simple as this may seem. it is the starting point for any issue with the clutch.

Actually, as components wear there is more cable slack, not less. Regardless though, agree that the cable must be properly adjusted so there is free play.

[barnbiketom]

Actually, as components wear there is more cable slack, not less. Regardless though, agree that the cable must be properly adjusted so there is free play.

Oops yes you're correct.

I have seen a many bike with no freeplay. For whatever reason. It's a peeve of mine. I'd like to check it out on all the bikes at bike nite

as I walk around haaaaaaa

[blowerbike]

Actually, as components wear there is more cable slack, not less. Regardless though, agree that the cable must be properly adjusted so there is free play.

ok ....
actually.......................................
when the clutch pack shrinks...the worm adjuster looses clearance.
uhuh....
equals clutch slip because the clutch pack can't lock up.
come on ladies.

[Nessism]

ok ....
actually.......................................
when the clutch pack shrinks...the worm adjuster looses clearance.
uhuh....
equals clutch slip because the clutch pack can't lock up.
come on ladies.

Dang, caught again.

[blowerbike]

Dang, caught again.

it ok...
i just like saying "worm gear"....hehe

[Neveragain55]

Ok guys,

Thank you all for the replies and they all help out very much.

No, I don’t use automotive oil (never have) I’m not that much of a noob. I’ve been riding and restoring motorcycles for over thirty years but in all of those years & experience I’ve never had clutch issues before and I definitely learned a lot from all of you.

I haven’t changed the brake lines but I flush the fluid and take the pistons out every couple of years and clean everything really well and I have no brake issues at all.

The clutch cable that’s on there now was bought brand new about ten years ago after the original one broke one day, so I also agree that it’s time for a new one. I was an aftermarket one from Dennis Kirk.

When I bought the bike it was a neglected basket that needed a complete rebuild but the clutch was solid so I have no idea if it was ever changed although I doubt it because it's a 79 and the original owner wreaked it racing and it sat in a basement from 1982 to 1993 when I got it. I doubt he changed the clutch in that short of a time span.

I’m just going to replace all the components (clutch cable, plates and springs) with OEM equipment and go from there.

Based on everything you guys say, that really should fix the problem. Sounds like you all have run into these issues before and fixed them with success.

I still have this nagging feeling that it’s something else only because I’ve experienced slipping clutches in cars over the years and this really doesn’t feel like that – but then again we are talking apples and oranges now aren’t we?

I would think that if the springs or plates were shot it would slip in all the gears (which it doesn’t) or slip when my ole lady is on the back with the extra weight (but it doesn’t)

But I’ll just change everything out for new parts.

Once all this snow has left the ground and spring rolls around I’ll attack everything then.

Thanks for the help gang………

[blowerbike]

dudeeeeeee
task a few minutes and adjust the worm gear on the sprocket cover side under a small cover.
loosen nut.
lightly seat center screw(just touches).
run out one full turn.
hold screw while jamming the nut down.
come onnnnn.
it's free and easy!

[blowerbike]

just listen to me...
go for a ride and get the bike in say 4th gear at around 30mph.
pull in the clutch and twist the throttle wide open and slam the clutch out.
if the bike bogs and shutters then the clutch is good.
if the engine revs up and slides then you need new parts or need to adjust the damn worm gear like i said.
free advice now go do it.

[Steve]

I’m just going to replace all the components (clutch cable, plates and springs) with OEM equipment and go from there.

Based on everything you guys say, that really should fix the problem. Sounds like you all have run into these issues before and fixed them with success.

As I mentioned before, evidently you have more money available than the rest of us. We are trying to get you up and going for FREE or MINIMAL expense, but you insist on spending money that you probably don't need to spend. Go for it.

I would think that if the springs or plates were shot it would slip in all the gears (which it doesn’t) or slip when my ole lady is on the back with the extra weight (but it doesn’t)

It's all about "mechanical advantage". Your clutch is not a digital device. Digital devices are either ON or OFF. In other words, they work or they don't. Your clutch is more analog, it will start to show some signs of weakness, which will get progressively worse before failure.

In the lower gears, the clutch is able to handle the amount of torque that the engine is putting out because it simply does not have to move the rear wheel that far with each power stroke. In the higher gears, it gets harder to turn the wheel, so the clutch is more likely to slip.

just listen to me...
go for a ride and get the bike in say 4th gear at around 30mph.
pull in the clutch and twist the throttle wide open and slam the clutch out.
if the bike bogs and shutters then the clutch is good.
if the engine revs up and slides then you need new parts or need to adjust the damn worm gear like i said.
free advice now go do it.

Or, you can do this in the safety of your own driveway.

Nose up to the wall of your garage or other sturdy item. Put the bike in 4th gear. Rev the engine like you are going to take off, let out the clutch. If the engine dies, your clutch is good. If it spins, change the springs.

If you try this is first gear, the bike will try to climb the wall, so keep it in 4th or 5th gear.

Sounds like you all have run into these issues before and fixed them with success.

No, actually none of us has EVER had this problem before, we are all just guessing what might fix the problem.

Now, allow me to translate the sarcasm. Not only has almost every one of us experienced this, we have probably had it happen on multiple bikes.

Ultimately, it's your bike and your money, do what you want.

.

[Neveragain55]

Contrary to popular belief, I really am a good listener, all of advice is very valuable, and I plan on taking all of it…….this spring…….not now

As far as spending money, I learned a 1000 years ago as a very young man that junk yards, used parts, quick fixes, trying to stretch parts that are shot, rubber bands & bandaids will only bring you one thing……………………trouble

I’m not rich but I am a firm believer in spending money once to fix the problem once.

Besides, replacing all those parts aren’t that expensive and there’s nothing worse than sitting on the side of the road on a hot day when a pack of Harley’s roll by laughing at you…………………which has never happened to me and I ever want it to

[Steve]

As far as spending money, I learned a 1000 years ago as a very young man that junk yards, used parts, quick fixes, trying to stretch parts that are shot, rubber bands & bandaids will only bring you one thing……………………trouble

True enough, but show me where ANYONE in this thread has advocated the use of "junk yards, used parts, quick fixes, trying to stretch parts that are shot, rubber bands & bandaids".


All we are saying is: Open up your clutch cover. Remove the six springs and the pressure plate, set them aside. Measure your fiber disks, they are probably fine and do not need to be replaced (order new ones if needed).
Put it back together with new STOCK springs (not heavy-duty aftermarket ones) and a new gasket. $30 and a half hour of your time, you are DONE.


I'm outta here.

.

[Agemax]

True enough, but show me where ANYONE in this thread has advocated the use of "junk yards, used parts, quick fixes, trying to stretch parts that are shot, rubber bands & bandaids".


All we are saying is: Open up your clutch cover. Remove the six springs and the pressure plate, set them aside. Measure your fiber disks, they are probably fine and do not need to be replaced (order new ones if needed).
Put it back together with new STOCK springs (not heavy-duty aftermarket ones) and a new gasket. $30 and a half hour of your time, you are DONE.


I'm outta here.

.

Steve, give up mate. he has been given all the advice he needs to cure his problem for next to nothing. if he wants to spend his money and replace everything whether it needs it or not, that is up to him.

[blowerbike]

and if you replace EVERY PIECE BRAND NEW...
and you don't adjust the part i keep mentioning then your clutch will burn out.

so with that i am done.


but i would like to add about the 4th gear clutch slip test.
putting a bike against the wall doesn't really get it into it's peak tork/hp zone.
so what may seem ok checking against the wall of a garage and the engine shutting off will be different on the road checking at a low mph and a higher gear while applying wot and slamming the clutch out.


now i am done.

[Steve]

Steve, give up mate.

I did.

Didn't you notice?

I'm outta here.

.