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Educate this noob on clutch actuator rod

  • Thread starter Thread starter ClineDesign
  • Start date Start date
C

ClineDesign

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77 GS 550.

I removed the left side case covering the primary sprocket and clutch push rod to install a new clutch cable. After putting the case back on I can't get the clutch cable to engage the clutch. Pulling in the clutch meets with hard resistance even after backing off the clutch rod adjustment screw. The bike is partially assembled right now, the engine has not been taken apart and it does run. What am I doing wrong?

clutchrod_zps047d36e5.jpg


clutch444_zps6ffba6ec.jpg
 
Well, on the 550 there are three places where the clutch may be adjusted. Just to be clear, you cannot get the clutch to ENgage (not DISengage), right? Make sure the cable outer is seated correctly both at the handle bar and by the sprocket cover. You might want to try threading the stop at the top of the sprocket cover in more to put a bit more slack in the cable.
 
Can you explain the mechanism by which the rod works, maybe I'll better understand what is going on. The rod freely rotates and goes in an out about an inch.
 
did the clutch EVER work correctly for you? how and when did the cable break?

the clutch lever and cable, , when pulled , makes the mechanism turn then move in and out.. it's on a screw ramp. this in turn pushes the pushrod in and out. when the pushrod goes IN , it will RELEASE the clutch plates. or 'disengage' te clutch. when the lutch lever is let out in the relaxed position, the clutch is ENGAGED.
I may be reading something into this, but did it ever work or did you get it this way?? it's pretty simple.

the pushrod should go in with a bit of effort assuming the other parts are freely working. remember , there should be SLACK in the clutch lever.. with no slack it is the same a riding with your foot on the clutch in a car..
 
ClineDesign said:
77 GS 550.

I removed the left side case covering the primary sprocket and clutch push rod to install a new clutch cable. After putting the case back on I can't get the clutch cable to engage the clutch. Pulling in the clutch meets with hard resistance even after backing off the clutch rod adjustment screw. The bike is partially assembled right now, the engine has not been taken apart and it does run. What am I doing wrong?


clutch444_zps6ffba6ec.jpg
Click to expand...


Looks like the clutch cable end is not inserted properly.
 
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Install the cable and make sure that you have the housing seated in the bosses the way they should be. Make sure the cable adjusters are backed down. Then on the out side of the sprocket cover there is a small cover . remove it. under the cover you will see a lock nut wit a screw slot in it. unlock the lock nut holding the screw, then turn the screw clockwise until you feel it come up against the rod[Do NOT Crank it down tight] Just snug then back it off 1/4 turn and lock the lock nut. then try your clutch , you can then fine tune it with your cable adjusters.
 
Nessism said:
Looks like the clutch cable end is not inserted properly.
Click to expand...

GOOD EYE .

The barrel may be backwards.. or not centered in the lever sandwich..I think one side of it has a depression where the cable ball end fits inside.

The way it is, the cable isn't far enough into the barrel and it is binding in the lever!!
 
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Wiggle the clutch rod around too and be sure its all the way in against the release bearing thats in the clutch assembly itself. Wiggle it vigourously and push it in to be sure its seated.
 
here is a pic of the barrel. see where the end of the cable should fit into and allow the cable to sit below the surface?
On yours, it looks like the cable is only into the slot, not all the way into the right place OR the barrel is backwards???

f_1163030.jpg
 
barnbiketom said:
did the clutch EVER work correctly for you? how and when did the cable break?

the clutch lever and cable, , when pulled , makes the mechanism turn then move in and out.. it's on a screw ramp. this in turn pushes the pushrod in and out. when the pushrod goes IN , it will RELEASE the clutch plates. or 'disengage' te clutch. when the lutch lever is let out in the relaxed position, the clutch is ENGAGED.
I may be reading something into this, but did it ever work or did you get it this way?? it's pretty simple.

the pushrod should go in with a bit of effort assuming the other parts are freely working. remember , there should be SLACK in the clutch lever.. with no slack it is the same a riding with your foot on the clutch in a car..
Click to expand...

Thank you for your responses. The clutch did work, I replaced a fraying cable after putting the engine back in the frame. Photo shows the relaxed cable pushed through the brass ferrule a bit. I don't have a good working handlebar clutch control lever at the moment and after I put the left hand cover back on I cannot get the clutch cable to pull out. Does it just need the leverage of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch?
 
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ClineDesign said:
Thank you for your responses. The clutch did work, I replaced a fraying cable after putting the engine back in the frame. Photo shows the relaxed cable pushed through the brass ferrule a bit. I don't have a good working handlebar clutch control lever at the moment and after I put the left hand cover back on I cannot get the clutch cable to pull out. Does it just need the leverage of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch?
Click to expand...
Yes you need a lever to disengage the clutch. You are not going to pull the cable by hand. You also need to adjust everything as I described to you earlier, once you have a lever installed
 
Thanks, I'll adjust everything as you suggested this weekend. Waiting on new levers and perches. I appreciate the assistance!
 
rolling starts not stopping at lights,shifting at the propper rpm,whay need a clutch?lol sorry feeling froggy tonight .
 
5150/gs said:
rolling starts not stopping at lights,shifting at the propper rpm,whay need a clutch?lol sorry feeling froggy tonight .
Click to expand...

Did that when I was much younger and the clutch cable broke on my 305 Scrambler. :)
 
I have the cable installed correctly and routed as stock, lever adjuster and engine case adjusters are all the way out and but I can't get it to completely release the clutch plates when pulling on the lever. The new cable is the same length as the stock one. The bars are a few inches shorter than what came on the bike. Is my problem that the cable is now too long?
 
Nessism said:
What happened when you adjusted the helix? How much freeplay at the hand lever?
Click to expand...

The helix doesn't rotate much when the lever is pulled. Rod adjustment screw was screwed in until resistance and then backed off about a 1/4 turn.
 
has the bike been sitting for a long time or did the clutch work good before you replaced the cable?

Again, HOW MUCH FREEPLAY is at the lever?? like Nessism asked?
 
Very little freeplay at the lever. Clutch worked before I replaced the cable but the bike has been sitting for about a year. The engine had been removed from the frame but the case has not been opened.
 
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