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Educate this noob on clutch actuator rod

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    Educate this noob on clutch actuator rod

    77 GS 550.

    I removed the left side case covering the primary sprocket and clutch push rod to install a new clutch cable. After putting the case back on I can't get the clutch cable to engage the clutch. Pulling in the clutch meets with hard resistance even after backing off the clutch rod adjustment screw. The bike is partially assembled right now, the engine has not been taken apart and it does run. What am I doing wrong?




    #2
    Well, on the 550 there are three places where the clutch may be adjusted. Just to be clear, you cannot get the clutch to ENgage (not DISengage), right? Make sure the cable outer is seated correctly both at the handle bar and by the sprocket cover. You might want to try threading the stop at the top of the sprocket cover in more to put a bit more slack in the cable.

    Comment


      #3
      Can you explain the mechanism by which the rod works, maybe I'll better understand what is going on. The rod freely rotates and goes in an out about an inch.

      Comment


        #4
        did the clutch EVER work correctly for you? how and when did the cable break?

        the clutch lever and cable, , when pulled , makes the mechanism turn then move in and out.. it's on a screw ramp. this in turn pushes the pushrod in and out. when the pushrod goes IN , it will RELEASE the clutch plates. or 'disengage' te clutch. when the lutch lever is let out in the relaxed position, the clutch is ENGAGED.
        I may be reading something into this, but did it ever work or did you get it this way?? it's pretty simple.

        the pushrod should go in with a bit of effort assuming the other parts are freely working. remember , there should be SLACK in the clutch lever.. with no slack it is the same a riding with your foot on the clutch in a car..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ClineDesign View Post
          77 GS 550.

          I removed the left side case covering the primary sprocket and clutch push rod to install a new clutch cable. After putting the case back on I can't get the clutch cable to engage the clutch. Pulling in the clutch meets with hard resistance even after backing off the clutch rod adjustment screw. The bike is partially assembled right now, the engine has not been taken apart and it does run. What am I doing wrong?



          Looks like the clutch cable end is not inserted properly.
          Last edited by Nessism; 02-11-2013, 12:54 AM.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

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          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Install the cable and make sure that you have the housing seated in the bosses the way they should be. Make sure the cable adjusters are backed down. Then on the out side of the sprocket cover there is a small cover . remove it. under the cover you will see a lock nut wit a screw slot in it. unlock the lock nut holding the screw, then turn the screw clockwise until you feel it come up against the rod[Do NOT Crank it down tight] Just snug then back it off 1/4 turn and lock the lock nut. then try your clutch , you can then fine tune it with your cable adjusters.
            1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
            80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
            1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
            83 gs750ed- first new purchase
            85 EX500- vintage track weapon
            1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
            “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
            If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              Looks like the clutch cable end is not inserted properly.
              GOOD EYE .

              The barrel may be backwards.. or not centered in the lever sandwich..I think one side of it has a depression where the cable ball end fits inside.

              The way it is, the cable isn't far enough into the barrel and it is binding in the lever!!
              Last edited by Guest; 02-11-2013, 10:34 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Wiggle the clutch rod around too and be sure its all the way in against the release bearing thats in the clutch assembly itself. Wiggle it vigourously and push it in to be sure its seated.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  here is a pic of the barrel. see where the end of the cable should fit into and allow the cable to sit below the surface?
                  On yours, it looks like the cable is only into the slot, not all the way into the right place OR the barrel is backwards???

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by barnbiketom View Post
                    did the clutch EVER work correctly for you? how and when did the cable break?

                    the clutch lever and cable, , when pulled , makes the mechanism turn then move in and out.. it's on a screw ramp. this in turn pushes the pushrod in and out. when the pushrod goes IN , it will RELEASE the clutch plates. or 'disengage' te clutch. when the lutch lever is let out in the relaxed position, the clutch is ENGAGED.
                    I may be reading something into this, but did it ever work or did you get it this way?? it's pretty simple.

                    the pushrod should go in with a bit of effort assuming the other parts are freely working. remember , there should be SLACK in the clutch lever.. with no slack it is the same a riding with your foot on the clutch in a car..
                    Thank you for your responses. The clutch did work, I replaced a fraying cable after putting the engine back in the frame. Photo shows the relaxed cable pushed through the brass ferrule a bit. I don't have a good working handlebar clutch control lever at the moment and after I put the left hand cover back on I cannot get the clutch cable to pull out. Does it just need the leverage of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch?
                    Last edited by Guest; 02-12-2013, 12:01 AM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ClineDesign View Post
                      Thank you for your responses. The clutch did work, I replaced a fraying cable after putting the engine back in the frame. Photo shows the relaxed cable pushed through the brass ferrule a bit. I don't have a good working handlebar clutch control lever at the moment and after I put the left hand cover back on I cannot get the clutch cable to pull out. Does it just need the leverage of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch?
                      Yes you need a lever to disengage the clutch. You are not going to pull the cable by hand. You also need to adjust everything as I described to you earlier, once you have a lever installed
                      1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                      80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                      1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
                      83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                      85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                      1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                      “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                      If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks, I'll adjust everything as you suggested this weekend. Waiting on new levers and perches. I appreciate the assistance!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          rolling starts not stopping at lights,shifting at the propper rpm,whay need a clutch?lol sorry feeling froggy tonight .

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 5150/gs View Post
                            rolling starts not stopping at lights,shifting at the propper rpm,whay need a clutch?lol sorry feeling froggy tonight .
                            Did that when I was much younger and the clutch cable broke on my 305 Scrambler.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I have the cable installed correctly and routed as stock, lever adjuster and engine case adjusters are all the way out and but I can't get it to completely release the clutch plates when pulling on the lever. The new cable is the same length as the stock one. The bars are a few inches shorter than what came on the bike. Is my problem that the cable is now too long?

                              Comment

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