First start up after top end rebuild

[Agemax]

i think it is possible to engage the shift mechanism without removing the clutch but its awful fiddly. make sure you remove the shift lever and engine cover so you have lateral play on the shift shaft.

[tkent02]

so once you got a new upper end you run it hard?

I do. You can do what you want, but read this first:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Agemax]

I do. You can do what you want, but read this first:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

its true, when i worked for Honda you could tell how a new owner "broke" his engine in. 2 identical bikes, 1 would go like hell, the other wouldn't pull the foreskin off a snail.
1st bike,the owner took it straight from the showroom and rode it how it should be ridden.
2nd bike, the owner "carefully" ran it in, not putting the engine under load and not revving it too high.

usually bike No.2 could be saved to a degree by thrashing it up the road when it came in for its 1st service. (usually to the owners disgust, but they did have a wry smile on their face after, when they feel how much better the bike rides)

[azr]

Got the shift linkage to mesh, and it all made sense when I looked at the components and 'the manual' everything was lined up like you said earlier. When I first turned the key on I saw my neutral light, I shifted down, I saw my first gear light then I shifted back up to neutral and all the neutral and gear indicator lights when out....arrrrrrr. Anyways she's shifting as she should now, the engine oil pressure light is working but she's still not starting. Slow turn over that's for sure, light a drained battery but she's fully charged. Like I said there was oil pouring out of the bolt hole where an oil pressure gauge would go so 'I'm guessing' oil is going where it should "and the little red light went out so everything is good......right??". Where have I heard that before, ha,ha,ha. Anyways....Ed had a good suggestion to recheck the cam timing, although I did static time they Dyna ignition and it is spot on, I kinda thought if the cam timing was off so would the ignition timing marks but what do I know. Any more suggestions please 'throw them this way'

[Agemax]

glad that bit is sorted. try swapping the 2 wires that go from the Dyna to the coils.black one and a white one. sounds silly but worth a try.

[azr]

Worth a try for sure, especially before I go back into the cams. But, the 'ol' suzuki' beat me today. Have been at her for at least 6 hrs and haven't really gotten any further. Learned lots that's for sure but haven't gotten her started yet. So I'm hanging up the grease rag for today and will have back at her with a vengeance tomorrow, well at least until I'm ready to kick her over off her centre stand!!! keep posted......

[azr]

Well still no luck, did try swapping the wires 'just in case' but no go. Well, now it seems I had better check my cam timing one more time. She's trying to catch but not that close. At least this way I'll be able to see if oil is up in the cams and lifts like it's supposed to be.

[Big T]

Rob,

You're down to basics - air, fuel, spark

Air is likely good

Spark you've checked

Pull the plugs and dribble a few cc's of gas in each cylinder, put the plugs back in and see if it starts up

[azr]

AAARRRRRRR.....pulled of the valve cover, sure enough the cams are not set properly as per the manual. Not sure how that happened as I know I checked it twice but obviously did something wrong. Anyways...start pulling the cams off and a single cam lobe bolt snapped in the head!!!!! this is what happened when I first pulled the engine apart, just a single bolt snapped. I'm not sure if there is a problem with the head, or the bolts, or just crap luck well I'm done for today that's for sure. I do have a shop that can helicoil the head for me but should I'm wondering if I should be worried that this is the second bolt to snap in this head? anyways, all a bit disheartening to say the least. Thanks for the help though guys, always appreciated.

[Nessism]

Sorry for the bad luck.

Before you undo the cam cap bolts it's best to get some vice grips and clamp the cams down into the head like it shows in the factory service manual. Much less stress on the bolts and bolt threads that way.

As for that broken bolt, a lot of the time they will just turn out by hand after they break. Try using a pointy drift or similar and hit the nub on the outer circumference and try to spin it out. Fingers crossed.

Anti-seize is highly recommended on those bolts. Keeps them from sticking like you experienced.

Good luck

[Charlie G]

I hope to never feel your pain

[azr]

Sorry for the bad luck.

Before you undo the cam cap bolts it's best to get some vice grips and clamp the cams down into the head like it shows in the factory service manual. Much less stress on the bolts and bolt threads that way.

As for that broken bolt, a lot of the time they will just turn out by hand after they break. Try using a pointy drift or similar and hit the nub on the outer circumference and try to spin it out. Fingers crossed.

Anti-seize is highly recommended on those bolts. Keeps them from sticking like you experienced.

Good luck

That's the dang thing, I had the cams clamped with vice grips, the bolts that I just took out, I was the one that put them in there a few weeks ago. Retaped the threads gentle to make sure they were good and clean, antisieze on every bolt, and nothing more than OEM torque spec. And then the engine hasn't been run as I haven't been able to start it. It doesn't make sense that the bolt snapped. I think I'm going to at least buy some new bolts in case these ones are past their day. I'll give idea to get the snapped bolt out a go for sure, I'm not holding my breath but it's worth a try.

[1980GS1000E]

One thing you may want to check is how tight the engine is to turn by hand, no spark plugs, wrench it over using the 19 mm bolt on the ignitor side. It should turn over without too much effort.

[azr]

Well the heads back together 'again'. The shop was able to get the snapped bolt out. I went to slap the valve cover back on and realized the gasket I had put on before was the wrong one! good thing the bike didn't start up or I would have had oil everywhere One thing that is ticking me off, I have no neutral light or gear lights. I then realized that the clutch is still not working. I can change gears with the shifter but when the bike is in gear pulling the clutch in does nothing . I remember when I was mucking around with it last time and got it all to work, I had all the lights coming on until I put it into gear, then no lights anymore. I didn't think there was anything in the basket side to do with electrics. arrrrr........guess I had better pull the clutch basket out and have a good look in there. I suppose I should probably measure the clutch pads anyways.......

[azr]

Ok, because I hate threads that are not followed up to their resolution. The bike is up and running. Turns out the no gear indicator lights wasn't a problem with the clutch area but rather the neutral switch, the pin to be exact, but that's in another thread. The bikes running 'fairly' well, the fine tunning will happen over the next few weeks. It's still hard to turn over though. I've checked the voltage each time and it's fine. It's as if the cylinders are tight but maybe this is totally normal for new rings??? I've only ridden it a mile or so, I did ride it as hard as I could considering where I was but tried to keep it up above 6 grand. The next chance I get to take her out though I'll definitely be running her like a 'stolen mule' as a friend says. I'm hoping she'll run better as I ride her more. Thanks for the help everyone.