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First start up after top end rebuild

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    #31
    Not trying to start something, but you don't need to keep it over 6000 rpm, nor should you in my opinion. Just ride it like you would though the city. Use the throttle aggressively, but don't rev the snot out of it either.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #32
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Not trying to start something, but you don't need to keep it over 6000 rpm, nor should you in my opinion. Just ride it like you would though the city. Use the throttle aggressively, but don't rev the snot out of it either.
      I read a bunch of threads about seating new rings and most seem to say ride it hard. Interested in your thoughts on the matter Ed.
      Rob
      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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        #33
        Look forward to seeing it in person someday.

        cg
        sigpic
        83 GS1100g
        2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

        Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

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          #34
          Originally posted by azr View Post
          I read a bunch of threads about seating new rings and most seem to say ride it hard. Interested in your thoughts on the matter Ed.
          As mentioned previously, just take the bike out and ride around town (or simulate), using the throttle liberally, about 1/2 of the range at first, and keep the revs down to about 1/2 of redline. Accelerate briskly, then down shift and let engine breaking slow you down. Repeat that cycle again and again, then progressively add more throttle and more rpm's. By the time you are up to 50 miles or so, you can do some full throttle, high rpm bursts. The idea here is to progressively add more throttle and more rpm's. Worst thing you can do is ride the bike slowly with a steady throttle load.

          Good luck
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #35
            Ok, please someone explain this one to me. I took the bike out for maybe a 25KM run the other day, up to 6 grand or so, up and down with the rpms. Ran not too bad, still need to work on the carb adjustment a bit and resynch the carbs again. Did it already and got it 'close enough' knowing I would do it again. She pulls hard enough that's for sure, I throttled it on one road and was like "wow, that's what a fresh top end feels like". She idles pretty as well. So..today I thought I might as well do a compression check. 90-100 across all four!! I even took her out for a quick spin to get a hot reading and the same thing! the throttle was wide open with all four plugs out to do compression. AARRRRRRRR...... the thing that I don't understand is how decent the bikes running. I 'guess' it could be my compression gauge but I doubt it. And again, when trying to start the bike it turns over like everything in there is 'tight', slow, stiff like even though I've got full charge at the battery. I can hear a 'clanging' noise in the top end as well but I'm hoping it's coming from the cam chain as I think I installed the tensioner wrong, turning out the screw too much.
            Rob
            1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
            Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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              #36
              Anybody have any thoughts on the compression numbers?
              Rob
              1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
              Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by azr View Post
                Anybody have any thoughts on the compression numbers?
                i would try another compression tester to make sure. the numbers are pretty even across all cylinders so that is a good sign
                1978 GS1085.

                Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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                  #38
                  Ya, that sounds like the easiest thing to do first. I've never ran a bike that had that low of compression, I really thought it would run a lot worse. I'm soooooo hoping I don't have to go back into the engine again
                  Rob
                  1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                  Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                  Comment


                    #39
                    As long as you bottle brush honed the cylinders well then I wouldn't worry about compression for now. Put 500 miles on the engine and then check again with a calibrated gauge.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Ya a had a motorcycle mechanic that does my tires, and I trust, honed the cylinders for me with his bottle brush, was great to see how it's supposed to be done. Well that's some pressure of my mind, thanks guys. Hey one more odd question. I went to check the Dyna S timing with my timing light. So #1-4 was bang on and I went to check 2-3 but there is no line to check to. There is a line to the 'far' left of 2-3 but it's marked with a "T", so I'm figuring that must have something to to with TDC. Of course 1-4 has a line directly to the left and the right and also the TDC line marked with a "T" to the far left. So, how the heck to I know where the 2-3 module goes exactly? A little searching answered it for me...there are not marks on the 2-3 other than TDC. So I took off the ignitions components from a 79 850 engine that do have marks for timing and advanced timing for 2-3 and transferred them over to the 80 1000G components and BANG, I now have everything perfectly set. Pulled off the carbs and airbox and redoing the cam tensioner. The other thing I found while in the ignition is the seal for the crank shaft is leaking...arrrrr. Hopefully I can fix that from the outside. And again after a minute of searching it looks like it's an easy fix. I'll order a couple of seals Tuesday.
                      Last edited by azr; 03-31-2013, 08:48 PM.
                      Rob
                      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                      Comment

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