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    #1

    Would you adjust these valve clearances?

    80GS1100E supposed to be between .003 and .005 in

    If you are trying to hit .004, half of mine need adjustment. Should I bother with the ones not within spec?

    #1 Exhaust .0025 (no go .003)
    #1 Intake .003 (no go .004)

    #2 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
    #2 Intake .005 (no go .006)

    #3 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
    #3 Intake .004 (no go .005)

    #4 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
    #4 Intake .003 (no go .004)

    Next question, how the heck do you adjust these? Just put a ratchet on these? I found the clearance in the shop manual but not the section on how to adjust these. Previous bike was shims 8-valve so totally clueless here.

    Thanks,
    -Bob
    Tags: valve clearance
    #2
    Go to BikeCliff's web-site.
    http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/


    Look for the "service manual" for the GS1100 for your bike, (no not the G model).
    Valve adjusting procedure starts on page 3-5.
    sigpic
    Steve
    "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
    _________________
    '79 GS1000EN
    '82 GS1100EZ

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by sedelen View Post
      Go to BikeCliff's web-site.
      http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/


      Look for the "service manual" for the GS1100 for your bike, (no not the G model).
      Valve adjusting procedure starts on page 3-5.
      Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.

      Live and learn. Interestingly my printed and hole punched factory manual shows a different tolerance on page 3-5, though all other text is almost exactly the same. Mine might be newer as one typo is corrected (" ead" vs "head" on page 3-6, for one).

      Thanks for the pointer because I was only looking in chapter 7!

      -Bob

      Comment

        #4
        z1 sells a tappet wrench that is well worth the price. It is also helpful to have two sets of feeler gauges so you can put a gauge under each tappet while you measure and make adjustments. I found on my bike that the bike is easier to start when the valves are set to the looser side of the tolerance. Bike becomes harder to start as valves get tighter.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by littleroot View Post
          Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.
          That's not right on an eight valve either.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by littleroot View Post
            Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.
            As tkent mentioned, that method is not correct for the 8-valve engines, either.

            There is a certain position for the cam, then you meausre TWO valve clearances before moving anything. Move the cams to the next position, measure two clearances, repeat until done.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment

              #7
              I measured them all per the manual - what a concept!

              They all will pass the .006 in feeler gauge with some good force, a couple with not a whole lot of force.

              I do not have the adjust tool mentioned so I am wondering if I should bother. After all too tight is really what we are worried about and these will tighten over time, right?

              Only concern is I want to recheck compression after #3 seemed low and maybe too big of clearance is contributing to this(?). Then again all measure clearance about the same and all the other cylinders have compression in spec.

              So maybe I should just rip the head off and fix the compression!

              Fwiw, compression measured 125, 125, 100, 125... If I did it right

              Comment

                #8
                The 1100 motor likes looser valves... Compression is enough... The bike needs to be ridden... If you need something to work on, come find oil leak!http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...es/biggrin.gif
                sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by bellucci View Post
                  The 1100 motor likes looser valves... Compression is enough... The bike needs to be ridden... If you need something to work on, come find oil leak!http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...es/biggrin.gif
                  No thanks I have one on my GL

                  Comment

                    #10
                    There will always be those who will not listen.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                      There will always be those who will not listen.
                      I adjusted them all per the manual. Seems to be smoother but only did a couple laps around the block before bed

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Got this done and sync'd carbs and it is smoother and more responsive. So happy ending.

                        But two problems still remain: noticeable vibration around 3500-4000 RPM and clutch is still not grabbing right. Not sure what to do about the bad vibes but I am going to pull the clutch apart and check everything since putting new springs didn't make it bite enough to do a good launch from a standing start. I think I'll go ahead and order new fibers. Need to start a new thread....

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Before you do your next regular valve adjustment , order a few extra lock nuts and adjustment screws. These will eventually get tight to the point they won't adjust. I usually have to replace one set when I do my valves. I have 4 extra sets on hand just for that.
                          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                          2015 CAN AM RTS


                          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
                            Before you do your next regular valve adjustment , order a few extra lock nuts and adjustment screws. These will eventually get tight to the point they won't adjust. I usually have to replace one set when I do my valves. I have 4 extra sets on hand just for that.
                            Will do, thanks

                            Comment

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