Periodic Maint parts for clutch?

[Guest]

For 80GS1100E, I am looking for advice on which parts, under normal circumstances, wear out on the clutch. In the service manual they only say to "inspect" the clutch.

I plan on riding maybe as much as 10,000 miles this summer/fall including a Rally, I hope) and now is the time before we get too far into spring. Also the bike just will not "launch" off the line like I know it should, and I've repalces the cable and springs.

I have found most items very worn out on this bike so I've been going front to back (side to side?) replacing stuff. Since my other bike is down I'd rather not open this bike and then have to wait for parts.

Thanks for your advice.

-Bob

[Toasty]

Clutch springs, clutch plates (steel and organic), check the basket for grooving, and lube the cable. The shift forks wear eventually but you need to split the cases to replace those.

[littleroot]

What are the symptoms for shift forks wearing out?

[sedelen]

So, what's up with your clutch?
Does it slip, does it engage unevenly? You can't smoke the rear tire?
Be advised, you have one of the more reliable GS1100 clutches, the '83 was the more problem prone one.

Those little fibre clutch plates will cost you $16.41 each and there's 9 of them. The steels will cost you $5.98 and there's 9 of those.
That's at Boulevard Suzuki,

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95901&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2155

Go to BikeCliff's web-site and download that service manual.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

The clutch section starts on page 7-46.

I don't know for sure, but I think you just might just possibly have a case of "tinkeritus."

[littleroot]

trying to understand the difference between the "drive plates" and the "driven plates". The Drive plates are the ones with the "claws" along the outside, according the to manual, so I guess the ones with the teeth on the inside are the driven plates.

Are the drive plates also known as "friction plates", like I see for sale in a kit from EBC?

Thanks for your time.

-Bob

[littleroot]

So, what's up with your clutch?
Does it slip, does it engage unevenly? You can't smoke the rear tire?
Be advised, you have one of the more reliable GS1100 clutches, the '83 was the more problem prone one.

Those little fibre clutch plates will cost you $16.41 each and there's 9 of them. The steels will cost you $5.98 and there's 9 of those.
That's at Boulevard Suzuki,

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95901&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2155

Go to BikeCliff's web-site and download that service manual.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

The clutch section starts on page 7-46.

I don't know for sure, but I think you just might just possibly have a case of "tinkeritus."

Thanks, Steve. Yeah, cannot smoke the tire or do a wheelie!

Seriously, it if I raise the revs the bike will stall no matter how I release the clutch. I have to let the clutch out very slow with gentle revs. This works but I also get a sudden grab at the end when the clutch lever is fully released. Also impossible to find neutral with the bike running and me stopped unless the clutch cable is way out of normal adjustment. When I want to stop and put the bike in neutral I always do so before I come to a stop, tapping down from second. Otherwise I have to turn the bike off, select neutral and then turn the bike back on. So yeah it is more than "tinkeritus"

[Toasty]

What are the symptoms for shift forks wearing out?

Popping out of gear and difficulty changing gears. Most of the time the issues are caused by improper adjustment, old springs or a dragging clutch.


From what I've read the EBC kit works fine, I haven't tried it though.

[littleroot]

Popping out of gear and difficulty changing gears. Most of the time the issues are caused by improper adjustment, old springs or a dragging clutch.

OK, glad I don't have those problems

From what I've read the EBC kit works fine, I haven't tried it though.

Thanks, I will probably contact Z1.

[sedelen]

trying to understand the difference between the "drive plates" and the "driven plates". The Drive plates are the ones with the "claws" along the outside, according the to manual, so I guess the ones with the teeth on the inside are the driven plates.

Are the drive plates also known as "friction plates", like I see for sale in a kit from EBC?

Thanks for your time.

-Bob

Part number 21441-31D00 are your fiber plates, regardless of what they're called, (I can't keep drive and driven straight). The others are commonly known here as steels.
Aftermarket clutch plates for the most part will eat your clutch basket, because the plates are steel, where as the Suzuki plates are aluminum.
I do hear some folks like the Fast by Gast plates though.

There's lots that has been written about the GS1100 clutches, their problems and fixes on this site, most have to do with slippage, or the big nut loosening, or clutch rattling, or eaten away baskets, checking.

[littleroot]

Part number 21441-31D00 are your fiber plates, regardless of what they're called, (I can't keep drive and driven straight). The others are commonly known here as steels.
Aftermarket clutch plates for the most part will eat your clutch basket, because the plates are steel, where as the Suzuki plates are aluminum.
I do hear some folks like the Fast by Gast plates though.

There's lots that has been written about the GS1100 clutches, their problems and fixes on this site, most have to do with slippage, or the big nut loosening, or clutch rattling, or eaten away baskets, checking.

More great info, thanks. I hope to get in there and measure the plates this weekend.

[littleroot]

Just closing out this, one of three clutch threads i stared since I got the bike: I went ahead and replaced all the steels and fibers and mission accomplished: no more slipping at high engine speed acceleration and no more clunky take off from stopped.