Valve cover noise

[mike10]

Hi, the old GS1000E 1980 started making a lot of rattling noise on top from the valve cover. So I took it off to have a look see. The valves are all within tolerance.But just for the heck of it I grabbed the timing chain and gave it a pull, it came up easy an inch and a half, then I noticed the Chain guide block had the arrow pointing to the rear (toward the tail light) So should the chain be that loose? That guide block has been backwards for almost 5 years. I'm thinking the cam chain adjuster crapped out. I wanted to hear if that is what you guy's think. (And Girls)

[chuck hahn]

Go down to the tensioner and jam the set screw against the rod and remove it from the engine. Leave the cams and chain alone and just remove the tensioner.

Once out, unlock the set screw off the rod and spray then helll out of it with carb or parts cleaner and lots of air. Re lube it and see that the tention rod moves freely.

Compress the rod in and set the screw against it to hold it back for reinstallation. Once back in, slowly back off the set screw to let the tentioner rod go back against the guide. turn the screrw back in till it touches the rod and them back off 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

Also check the condition of the rear guide itself. Look down in with a good light to see if its grooved badly or otherwise unduely damaged.

Also check the bolts on the cam caps for looseness. Any roller axles should be checked for slop.

[Steve]

Once back in, slowly back off the set screw to let the tentioner rod go back against the guide. turn the screrw back in till it touches the rod and them back off 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

This is the part that most "mechanics" mess up. They will usually loosen the set screw to release the plunger, then lock it into place, but won't back off that 1/4 turn to allow it to do its job.

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[chuck hahn]

I have had a few guys that did that and it was a 2 minute fix to let the tensioner back against the chain..and the noise simply vanished. Thats also a good way to induce wear on the chain and cam sprockets unnecessarily.

AND another thing is that the threads on the set screw ( more correctly its a guide rod of sorts ) are full of crap. They back it off, but as soon as they try to tighten the jam nut the screw follows and they dont even know it happened.

[mike10]

Thanks

I,ll do like you said, Chuck, do you think the guide block between the cams should be swiched the right way. It has been pointing the wrong direction for about 5 years. Thanks for the help Guys

[mike10]

This is the part that most "mechanics" mess up. They will usually loosen the set screw to release the plunger, then lock it into place, but won't back off that 1/4 turn to allow it to do its job.

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That might be what I did. Thanks

[chuck hahn]

Not right now....do the tensioner and be sure it works and is installed properly so you can rotate the crank SAFELY.

Once that is done, rotate the engine and watch the number 1 INTAKE valve. Once the cam opens it and it closes you are on the compression stroke. The intake and exhaust valves should both be closed now.

Now remove the plugs so you can rotate the crank real easy and with some finesse. Slowly roll the piston to top dead center and verify it by looking at the timing mark in the points cover..it should be lined up with the "T" mark. Now you are at perfect top dead center.

Next look at the EXHAUST cam sprocket from the side and look right at the edge of the head...see an arrow numbered 1..should be pointing straight ahead and the arrows shaft level with the edge of the head surface.

Next, look up on the same cam and youll see a number 2 arrow pointing straight up at the chain..then look at the INTAKE cam and youll see a number 3 arrow. These are the cam timing marks.

The crank should be on the T mark and the arrows in the positions i noted. Refer to the manual for the number of cam chain pins that should be bewtween the number 2 and 3 arrows...I think your bike should be 20. count each pin starting with the one number 2 points at and end with the one arrow 3 points at. This will confirm cam timing and that it didnt jump a tooth.

NOW..without moving the crank..you can rotate the roller guides. They are marked for a reason. refer to the service manual for torque and directional orientations.

If you move the cams..no big deal. Just re line them up as i told you they should be and youll be ok. You will have to remove the tensioner again to get slack in the chain to do the work. But as i stated before...get the engine at TDC and verify everything BEFORE you remove the tensioner again. Good time to adjust the valves also since she is all opened up.

[chuck hahn]

Before you consider moving them..do they seem tight on their axles..no slop lifting on them, no "lean" if you press on the sides, or undo wear on the sprockets..youll may well just leave them alone!!!!

Check the timing marks and service the tensioner and valves and call it good to go!!!

[chuck hahn]

Go here and sellect the 80 service manual. Page 98, section7-16 is the start of the top end reassembly...read it thru and look at the diagrams which will better show you what i explained.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[mike10]

Ok

I'll start on it in the morning I have a Climers and a Hanes manual for it. I'll check out the chain tentioner first, then make sure the timing is right. Thank You, Mike

[chuck hahn]

Clymer AND Haynes have been known to have wrong info from time to time..Cliff has the Factroy service manuals on downloadable PDF files, or you can print the applicable pages and take to the garage..If you have wireless internet just take the laptop.

[mike10]

Clymer AND Haynes have been known to have wrong in fo from time to time..Cliff has the Factroy service manuals on downloadable PDF files, or you can print the applicable pages and take to the garage..If you have wireless internet just take the laptop.

I'm looking through the Bikecliff service manuals now. Thanks again Mike

[Steve]

I have a Climers and a Hanes manual for it.

I also have Clymer and Haynes manuals for my bikes, but really do prefer the FACTORY service manual.

There are times that Clymer and Haynes might explain how to make a tool that will work in place of a 'special' tool from the factory, but there are even more times that they just plain do something wrong.

Go here and sellect the 80 service manual. Page 98, section7-16 is the start of the top end reassembly...read it thru and look at the diagrams which will better show you what i explained.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Very good suggestion. More specifically, click HERE to go directly to the manual that you need.

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[mike10]

between the 2 and 3 arrows

I put the engine at TDC I only have 19 pins between Arrow 2 and 3. Also the arrow that needs to point to the valve cover gasket surface is slightly high. When I took the timing cover off it was already nearly at TDC I only had to move it a little to line up the TDC marks. I might have to take the carbs off to get to the cam chain tentioner bolts. Not much room in there. I checked my Clymer manual with the Bikecliff service info. They were the same. Maybe I got the new revised Clymer. But they can't even spell Climber right Ha Ha

[mike10]

I put the engine at TDC I only have 19 pins between Arrow 2 and 3. Also the arrow that needs to point to the valve cover gasket surface is slightly high. When I took the timing cover off it was already nearly at TDC I only had to move it a little to line up the TDC marks. I might have to take the carbs off to get to the cam chain tentioner bolts. Not much room in there. I checked my Clymer manual with the Bikecliff service info. They were the same. Maybe I got the new revised Clymer. But they can't even spell Climber right Ha Ha

I took my cam chain tentioner off and the body came off but the rod stayed in the engine the rod came right out I don't see any damage anywhere. But I don't know what this means?