Gs 1100 left end crank breakage

[Guest]

Where at on the left end do these usually break? Any pictures? Thanks for any input

[BassCliff]

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[4cyl h2]

Thanks for the welcome looking foward to being part of the site looks like a greate one!

[4cyl h2]

Any drag racers out there can maybe help? Heard this was pretty common

[bonanzadave]

Ray will know (rapidray). Not sure if this email still works. suzukiray@yahoo.com

Mine suffered from the left end nut coming loose and then the starter clutch chewed the taper all to hell.

[Homie]

The GS1100 cranks don't so much have a rep for "breaking" as they do for chewing up the taper on the small taper cranks ('80-'82) like with what happened to BonanzaDave (among others). For stock to moderately hopped up engines the stock crank is solid and usually not a problem. For higher power applications the large taper crank ('83) is better being that like it's nickname says, it has a less trouble prone large taper and the crank pins are welded. For high power race applications a couple of racers here on the board like Ray (RapidRay) or Terry (BlowerBike) could be more insightful as to what crank mods or aftermarket cranks are usable for a given application.

Dave, I remember seeing the pic of your galled crank taper and it was pretty gnarly. However, I don't remember what you did to fix it. Did you have to replace the crank? Have it welded and reground? Or was it able to be dressed and reassembled?

[4cyl h2]

Thanks for both replays I have heard ray is knowledgable I'll try emailing him. This will be used for drags and self starting but will have the magnet removed

[blowerbike]

they break at the main bearing.
when you go to remove the stator cover the rotor and all comes off with it..lol
with the snout of the crank inside.
i have seen this several times on stock motored street bikes...abused but still stock.
most the time as mentioned they spin the rotor.
the rotor taper gets larger and the crank gets smaller plus sometimes materiel is miss on both...like from a blow torch.
fill the bad spots and the complete taper with red locktite and impact it's bag off and let sit for 24 hours.
and pray or sell it...hehe
on a drag only bike you get away with the damage after removing the magnet.
and always!!!ALWAYS!!!
pull the clutch in before closing the throttle...letting these back down from high RPM's does the damage in the 1st place.

hell i'm bored most the time..
any question pertaining to 1100/1150 16v.
i'm always open to calls...information is free.
between cincy and dayton ohio if i can be of assistance in person pertaining to the models i have mentioned.
513.420.0123
terry

[4cyl h2]

Your reply is much appreciated. I do have another? I'm doing some valve work on a dragbike I'm building and wondering if back cutting the valves is much advantage. And if so how much to cut them.

[bonanzadave]

Did you have to replace the crank? Have it welded and reground? Or was it able to be dressed and reassembled?

I used a coarse lapping compound to level out the high spots and true the damaged surfaces as best I could. Back and forth with the starter clutch a 1000 times. Cleaned it all up with some solvent, applied some permanent lock tite, hit it with the big 1/2 impact. So far so good.

[4cyl h2]

Did you have a problem with the taper going on to far ( because of the wear) and loosing clearance at the starter gear

[blowerbike]

Did you have a problem with the taper going on to far ( because of the wear) and loosing clearance at the starter gear

sometimes when it's bad..
you impact it on and then try to start it and the starter clutch stays engaged.
you then have direct drive and blow your starter a part..lol
fun fun

[bellucci]

I hope he doesn't scare easy... blown starter and all...
Curt

[Homie]

most the time as mentioned they spin the rotor. the rotor taper gets larger and the crank gets smaller plus sometimes materiel is miss on both...like from a blow torch.
fill the bad spots and the complete taper with red locktite and impact it's bag off and let sit for 24 hours. and pray or sell it...hehe
terry

I've been thinking about this. I don't have to do anything with the rotor yet, but when the time comes that I do. Ok, so the specified torque value on the nut is something like 120 ft/lbs. My air impact wrench is rated at 580 ft/lbs @ 90 psi. Sounds like I could easily over-torque it if I'm not careful. If I "impact it's bag off" do you think it's possible to strip the threads, break the nut, or the worse case senario - break the crank snout off? Has any of this kind of stuff ever happened to anyone? Sometimes I wonder why didn't Suzuki didn't just machine the crank and rotor for a simple woodruff key?

[blowerbike]

don't think to hard tom.
keys didn't work on kawi's.
also if one is bigger and the other is now smaller and you do not tight the f*ck out of it....
guess what??
it will just spin off.
we are talking about a bad design and parts that are now damaged.
an impact is not going to push the rotor any farther that it is meant to go no matter how powerful it is.
your impact is also not going to break anything we are speaking of.
you throw the torque specs out the door on big stuff.