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    #1

    Valve Seal Replacement

    This is my first engine rebuild, so bear with me!

    I am rebuilding a gs1100g, and when I got it running, it had significant smoking out the tailpipes. I dont think it was your usual "burning off the crap" smoke, it was very thick and obviously oil. After concluding that it was the rings, I tore down the engine to the cyllinders and discovered that the rings are indeed nearly perfect. no cracks or breaks. cyllinder walls look perfect too. Long story short, my next assumption is that the oil burning was due to the valve stem seals. After removing my first valve, i am not sure how to actually remove the seal without damaging it... it seems stuck in there good, and I am not sure exactly how they are "atached" in there. Any veterans know how to safely remove and replace the seals? (I already have the replacement seals ready to go.)
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    #2
    it wont hurt if you damage the seal removing it as you are replacing it anyway. just grab it with some long nose pliers, twist and pull.
    to refit the new ones, smear inside with grease and push on, over the top of the guides. making sure they seat properly
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment

      #3
      I assume you did the oil control rings properly on the cylinders, could you have overfilled the engine with oil?

      As for the seals, you won't get them off intact, they will be torn up. The new ones should be seated with a 10mm deep socket over the valve stem, using it as a guide. Tap it down gently until you feel it seat.

      Test the seal by pulling the valve out with your finger over the hole. The intake valves should bounce back in and make a pop when withdrawn. This is critical to maintain the engine vacuum.
      The exhaust side will be looser, the valve stem gets real hot and seals better, the exhaust also does not have vacuum on the seals.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

      Comment

        #4
        When he says tap em' on lightly he means LIGHTLY. It is easy to drive them on too far and have the rubber rip through the brass. Learned that one the hard way, man that sucked!

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by matt1100 View Post
          When he says tap em' on lightly he means LIGHTLY. It is easy to drive them on too far and have the rubber rip through the brass. Learned that one the hard way, man that sucked!
          bit of grease or oil to lube them you can push them on with your thumb.....
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment

            #6
            Awesome thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I pulled pretty hard with the needle nosed, i just wanted to make sure i wasnt gonna break something in the process!

            Also, when I reassemble everything, am i correct in assuming that TDC on #1 doesnt have a "compression stroke" since the came are off? Am I right that as long as i put the cams on in "compression stroke layout" it doesnt matter if it is the same stroke as it originally was?

            Thanks everyone

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              #7
              You should really download and study a factory manual from Cliff's site. It will illustrate the process of setting the timing very clearly,

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                #8
                Be careful you don't pull too hard and break a valve guide! I speak from experience... Someone on here used a torch to heat them up and burn out the rubber, if I were to do it again that's the way I'd do it.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by WShie View Post
                  Be careful you don't pull too hard and break a valve guide! I speak from experience... Someone on here used a torch to heat them up and burn out the rubber, if I were to do it again that's the way I'd do it.
                  Do believe that was Eric Bang, thread out there somewhere?
                  sigpic
                  Steve
                  "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
                  _________________
                  '79 GS1000EN
                  '82 GS1100EZ

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                    #10
                    has anyone done them without taking the head off?

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by WShie View Post
                      Be careful you don't pull too hard and break a valve guide! I speak from experience... Someone on here used a torch to heat them up and burn out the rubber, if I were to do it again that's the way I'd do it.
                      It was Eric, here's his You Tube torch valve guide removal.
                      Removing valve stem seals
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I29eh3rVbo
                      This just happens to be on a GS1000G head but pretty much all motorcycles/small engines are similar.Don't forget to thoroughly clean the burnt rubber bits of...
                      sigpic
                      Steve
                      "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
                      _________________
                      '79 GS1000EN
                      '82 GS1100EZ

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Crazy_Russian View Post
                        has anyone done them without taking the head off?
                        Yes indeed there was, can't remember how long ago it was, but I didn't think he could do it. He was talking about taking a rope and feeding it through a spark plug hole then turning the enging over to hold the valve in place, then used some fabricated PVC to depress the valve spring and then changed out the valve seal. Perhaps someone will dig up that thread and post it here.
                        sigpic
                        Steve
                        "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
                        _________________
                        '79 GS1000EN
                        '82 GS1100EZ

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                          #13
                          i was just thinking presurise the chamber with compressed air

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