something has gone horribly wrong piston hitting valve

[chuck hahn]

well...let me give you a suggestion.

Since the head is off anyway, have the valve seats recut and lap the valves. Put in new valve stem seals. measure the spring lengths per the service limits stated in the manual. See that you havent also broke any valve guides when they hit. Do a very meticulous and comprehensvie rebuild of the top end only.

If there wasnt anything wrong with the lower end and tranny before, then theres no real reason to even trouble with it.

In reality, all you need to do is get that head and valves in order again, new head and cover gaskets, be sure the tensioner is done right, and then retime it. It seems daunting, but its really not that bad of a task.

[m.qualls89]

No I know it shouldnt be that bad of a job its the $ involved lol. With work slow and seems like everything need matinence at the same time the bike may have to go on the back burner for a few weeks.

[chuck hahn]

I know that situation all too well. I got some things that need some cash thrown at them too. I pay the bills first and then save a little till the funds are there...which may be SEVERAL weeks down the road!!!

[m.qualls89]

I know that situation all too well. I got some things that need some cash thrown at them too. I pay the bills first and then save a little till the funds are there...which may be SEVERAL weeks down the road!!!

Exactly, which kind of sucks right now because I HAD a trip to my family reunion in Melber, KY planned on the bike. Looks like I'll be sucking gas in my F-250 now lol.

[chuck hahn]

Could be worse...youre not 250 miles from home at 3 AM and it happened!!!!

[m.qualls89]

Quick question, I'm assuming this means when the 1 & 4 cylinders are at TDC . Am I correct?
While Holding down the timing chain rotate the crankshaft in normal direction to bring the T mark (on nos 1 & 4 cylinder side of advance governor) to the timing mark

[chuck hahn]

yes...1 and 4 at TDC.. Do it just like the manual and the pictures of what you should see depict.

[m.qualls89]

Ans the hits keep coming lol. Apparently someone put a helicoil in the #1 intake side for bolting down the cam and it pullled out tightening it to spec. Off to the store I go.

[m.qualls89]

Ok guys I got it retimed. Heres what I am running into so any help is appreciated. My plan was to retime it then set the valves and do a compression test and hope that i didn't have any leakdown and keep me from pulling the head as the funds just aren't there right now. I got it all put back together after 4 helicoils. I put the cam chain tensioner back it and did it right. I started setting valves and once again when turning it over by hand a piston hit a valve. Is this a sure sign of bent valves or am I doing something wrong? When I back the valves WAY off it will turn over all you want. I'm trying to upload a video to show what I have been doing and maybe somebody can point out that I'm adjusting something wrong. Or tell me I'm doomed lol.

[gs11ezrydr]

Double check your timing sounds like your missing a step there poss. Also do you have access to a leak down tester and an air compresser. If no leakdown tester you could build your own for a few bucks.Easiest way to check your motor now is to remove the cams and leak it down.If no bent valves you should get and hold pressure.Some leakage past the rings is normal as long as it is under 10% you should be fine. If not holding pressure you can hear it coming out of either the exhaust (pipes) or the intake (carbs) or into the crankcase confirming bent valves, damaged or worn rings,head gasket etc. While the cams are out measure the spring heights if they are not all the same and a few are shorter then the others that is indicating that they are not coming all the way back up.(bent).Depending on you and your mechanical or maintence needs I usally instruct people to replace the stock tensioners with an aftermarket type (manual) and this will never happen again.Once you get used to manual cam chain adjusters and don't overtighten them you will have peace of mind that under most any conditions the tensioner can not back off and cause carnage.But I have several stock tensioners around here if some one was to need one and I still can find them they could have em free of charge.

[m.qualls89]

Any ideas as to why when I set the valves I keep running into them? The cams are back in it but I can take them back out it I have to.

[m.qualls89]

Here is how I have the cam lobe set when I am setting the valve. Is this right?

[m.qualls89]

And I'm pretty sure the timing is correct. I had the T mark lined up with the timing mark when cylinders 1 and 4 were at TDC. Then I lined up the exhaust cam as it said and counted over 20 pins from the 2 mark on the exhaust cam and lined up the 20th pin with the 3 mark on the intake cam.

[m.qualls89]

Ok so a previous post made me double check. It has jumped time again. What is odd is the 2 mark on the intake cam is still 20 pins away from the 3 on the intake cam. But the timing mark no longer lines up. So I timed it again. Set one valve and turned it over aboit 10 times. Once again out of time. Any suggestions?

[Nessism]

How about posting some photos showing the 1-4 T mark aligned, 1-- mark on exhaust cam aligned with the cam cover surface, and the the cams showing how many pins between 2 and 3?

BTW, adjusting the valves needs to be done per the Factory Suzuki Service manual. Basscliff has a free download if you don't already have it.

Edit: post above showed up while I was typing.

Sounds like your cam chain tensioner is messed up. You need to wind it up and tighten the set screw before installing, then release the plunger (set screw) after it's bolted up to the cylinder. The plunger should spring out with a good deal of force, thus tightening the chain.