performance mods. are they reliable?

[Guest]

So while I've been working on my 80 gs1100 and I have been wanting to port and polish my head and put bigger cams in. The thing I've been wondering about is am I going to make it an unreliable motor? I don't want something that will blow up every 10, 000 miles.

[Agemax]

if mods are done sensibly, correctly and by a reliable source, then there is no reason why the engine shouldn't be as reliable as a stock engine.

[Steel Toed Tank]

With age of these bikes everything that could be done to them, has been.

I'm sure there were more than few mods that hurt performance and reliability, but they died out many years ago.

Many drag racers use old Suzukis for a reason!

[posplayr]

There is not much you can do to make them unreliable except maybe hig cams without top end oilers. Just follow most of what other experienced people are doing. Even the most exotic is pretty tried and true.

[mrbill5491]

An 80 GS1100 what? An E model? If it is, there is a reason it has a TSCC. It is a performance enhancement. Sure there are some other things you can to, though gotta be careful on this bike. It has a pressed on crank not a welded one. If you are looking for some serious HP improvements, best take the crank out, get it trued and welded first.

[m.qualls89]

Yes its an E model sorry about that. My cylinders are bored to 75mm but are toast so I ordered a used block (which will be bored to 75mm also as my pistons are fine with only about 7000 miles) on ebay along with a used head to get me back riding while I decide what exactly I want to do with mine (I jumped time and bent valves and upon inspection all of my valves and springs were out of tolerance). I'm not sure how much of a hp gain I'm looking for honestly I just figured if I'm gonna put everything new in the head like I want then go big or go home lol. I really don't want to have to take the crank out if I don't have to as my bottom end is fine as far as I know. Anything I can do without welding the crank?

[mrbill5491]

Yes its an E model sorry about that. My cylinders are bored to 75mm but are toast so I ordered a used block (which will be bored to 75mm also as my pistons are fine with only about 7000 miles) on ebay along with a used head to get me back riding while I decide what exactly I want to do with mine (I jumped time and bent valves and upon inspection all of my valves and springs were out of tolerance). I'm not sure how much of a hp gain I'm looking for honestly I just figured if I'm gonna put everything new in the head like I want then go big or go home lol. I really don't want to have to take the crank out if I don't have to as my bottom end is fine as far as I know. Anything I can do without welding the crank?

Depends how you are going to ride the bike, drag racing now and then? Some high spirited riding? I've known a couple friends with the same bike pretty much stock with the exception of adding a pipe and rejet the carbs spin the crank out of true.

[Ecklund]

So while I've been working on my 80 gs1100 and I have been wanting to port and polish my head and put bigger cams in. The thing I've been wondering about is am I going to make it an unreliable motor? I don't want something that will blow up every 10, 000 miles.

With guys racing these things for decades, many vendors still supporting them and lots of experience here, almost all permutations of mods have been tried and tested to failure.

A member named Chef did an autopsy on a build that was literally melted and he, along with many others, have been wiling to give advise on how to avoid that outcome.

And people are still hard at it. Member Posplayr has integrated the Compufire r/r to make the charging system function better and more reliable.

This combination is fairly unique and one of the main reasons I jumped in.

[Big Jay]

A lot of the performance parts today are much higher quality than oem was back in '80.

[m.qualls89]

Pretty much a daily rider that I can twist the throttle back and have a little fun on. I just like the idea of having a bike that looks old and slow but will run with today's rockets. The more I think about it the more I wamt to save up and put a big block in it to. Those are kind of pricey though lol and I've already been quoted almost a grand to port and polish the head. Looks like I may be running it stock for awhile and save up the cash.

[hikermikem]

The 1100 "stock" welded cranks started in '82, but I believe the '83 engine is more desirable due to its larger crank end...

With that said, my '81 1100E engine (same as your '80) is completely stock, save for a 4-1 pipe, pods, & stage 3 kit - scares the crap outta me at high speed !!

The problem is the suspension on these old girls is not where it needs to be go fast confidently - simply dropping in a hopped-up motor is really only half the battle...

Have fun, ride safe!

[kawfeedave]

Pretty much a daily rider that I can twist the throttle back and have a little fun on. I just like the idea of having a bike that looks old and slow but will run with today's rockets. The more I think about it the more I wamt to save up and put a big block in it to. Those are kind of pricey though lol and I've already been quoted almost a grand to port and polish the head. Looks like I may be running it stock for awhile and save up the cash.

Keep in mind that the new 'rockets' are coming stock with 150+ HP and generally weight in at/under 425lbs. It's a tall order to keep up with them when you start with a 550+ lb bike and 110 hp. I would take a serious build to keep up with a modern liter bike, and it should probably include upgraded suspension and brakes.

I have an '82 1100E with an 1166 kit, Yoshi cams, Stage 3 jetted carbs and a V&H pipe. I've been working on odds and ends for a while, and finally have it running like a top. I did the forks/progressive springs/seals/fork oil, and a fresh set of Michelin Pilots, but after a little time on the street with the bike running at 100%, I'm immediately looking for better brakes.

Unless you're ready to do the suspension/brakes/tires, building a monster motor seems like an odd idea. You'd be better off putting your money into suspension/brakes/tires, and leaving the motor stock. I has plenty of beans and you'll be able to use them all if the rest of the bike is up to snuff.

[rapidray]

I build a LOT of bigger GS motors & reliability is no issue IF you do the neccessary things to make them live. The cranks & clutch hubs HAVE to be welded if you want to keep them alive. The rest is just parts. 150 hp is ride accross country & back reliable. I had a 180 hp GS 1385 on the street for over 2 years in Hawaii & rode it every day in street traffic. Ray.

[retcol]

I'ld love to see some photos of your bikes, you have an incredible collection there.

[stetracer]

Pretty much a daily rider that I can twist the throttle back and have a little fun on. I just like the idea of having a bike that looks old and slow but will run with today's rockets. The more I think about it the more I wamt to save up and put a big block in it to. Those are kind of pricey though lol and I've already been quoted almost a grand to port and polish the head. Looks like I may be running it stock for awhile and save up the cash.

You will never run with the newer bikes on the street unless it is a drag race. They are street legal road race bikes right off the show room floor. But whooping up on them in a straight line seems to pi$$ them off so yea it a lotta fun.
A big block makes a lot of power and is what is going to kill your dependability by increasing the heat the motor will produce. Heat is the killer of your motor. They used to make street big blocks years ago with more cooling fins but I have not seen one in many many years. With the big block you will need better rods. It is a MUST that the crank and clutch basket be welded and might as well undercut the tranny dogs while your in there. I feel the bottom end of the motor should be done first for dependability then build your top end.
It all depends on how much power you want to make decide that and go from there. You really need to decide what you want to do motor wise and stick to it because that will decide what you need in your port work for your head. If you wanting high 8's then you will need a big block. If you just looking for some low 10's high 9's you can do that with a stock motor just some port work, carbs, and a pipe ( built bottom end ) and a whole lotta chassis work.
My 82 Katana 1000 went a 9.87 @ 135mph on a stock pistons and 1150 cams, 36mm RS carbs, V/H sidewinder pipe, and my Nicely ported stock valve head with a 68'' wheel base no bar chassis. So with your pistons and some good cams, RS carbs, and my Nicely ported stock valve head you should be able to run some really low 10's maybe some high 9's with a shorter chassis than my Katana had.
Like someone else said chassis work is important your chassis is not designed to go over 150mph and now that is worn and loosened up you should look into the chassis also. Put a Bandit 1250 swingarm in it and switch it to mono shock then add a GSXR 1000 inverted front end and wheels that should pull about 30 or 40 lbs off the bike. And makes it look bad a$$.