My Gs550l 1982, carbs, leaks, and squeaks.

[Guest]

just kidding about the squeaks.

I have in my possession a 1982 GS550l in fairly good condition, and my priority is to get the "Lady" running first and foremost.

Prev owners told me she would just need some good fuel to start right up, but after a while I realized the carb boots needed replacing and the carbs themselves need a good cleaning. So I ordered and installed some new carb boots (160 dollars! ) and I was on my way to rebuilding the carbs when something snapped.

It appears that one of the shafts that holds the float pin in place on my far right carb has been severed. I know this part probably isn't going to go through much stress other than holding the float pin, which isn't a particularly rigorous job, so I figure that I should be able to fix it with some sort of petroleum resistant glue or quick weld putty.

Can you recommend any good products for me to use?

Also, I have been able to get the bike to run using starter fluid. After it warms up, smoke starts to come out of the far left exhaust port (where the exhaust header connects to the engine). There is also a leak coming from the front of my engine in between the middle two exhaust headers. It looks like a bolt is missing there on the engine and that is why oil is seeping out of the crack. Ill try and post pics later.

I'm new to the forum and thanks in advance for any responses.

Edit: Also, these darned carb bracket screws are way too tight! I cant seem to dig into them enough without stripping the heads. Any cheap ways to solve this?

[tom203]

c3powil said...
"Prev owners told me she would just need some good fuel to start right up,"
How thoughtful of them! But you've already found out they or someone has gone messing with it. Sitting on bike, #1 carb is on extreme left, so your #4 carb has a broken float pin mount? This seems to happen when excessive force is used to drive out pin.
Japanese screw drivers are slightly different than ours- ours don't fit well in their heads. Once you get them out (vicegrip, drilling, etc.) best to replace with allen head,

When you replaced those carb boots ( ? on engine side ?), did you notice the the o-ring at head/boot interface?
I'd avoid starter fluid further use- it's told you all it can . Head to this link and be amazed/scared by the maintenance issues that await you.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff

OH yeah, WELCOME

[terrylee]

There should be a "how to fix broken float post" on that same site. If not do a search on here there should be several threads on more permant methods than metal fillers. This very common problem. terrylee

[c3powil]

Thanks guys, I didn't realize the float thing was a common problem or I would have done a search.

To clarify, when I replaced the carb boots, I also replaced the O rings.

[Nessism]

Okay, so the lesson to be learned here is to search out information before you waste money and butcher the bike. If you use the carb rebuild tutorial as linked in my signature it will show you how to avoid busting those float tower posts, and how to remove stubborn screws using an impact driver. Also, there are lots of posts here on the best places to buy OEM Suzuki parts at the best price. This place has those boots for $26.14 each. http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/

Now that the carb post is broke I suggest just getting a new carb body. Post in the Parts Wanted forum along with the specific carb number you need. It's highly likely that someone here has a spare for you.

Good luck

[c3powil]

Thanks for the info. I must have searched for carb boots on the internet 50 times and that website never came up.

I tried putting the float and pin back in with the other post still missing and it seems to work fine and it's just as sturdy. If anything, I'll use some putty on the end of the pin to make sure it won't slip out, but otherwise I don't think the damage is significant enough to warrant spending cash on a new carb body.

I'm following the tutorial on rebuilding the carbs, but I read in the newbie mistakes thread that many jets from aftermarket are not as good as the oem. My oem jets seem to be fine, would you recommend using these in my rebuild or the new ones I got in the "K&L" brand rebuild kit?

Sorry, I know these questions are better suited for the carburetor forum, but I thought it would be better to just continue this thread than make a new one.

[mike_of_bbg]

Do a search on the forums for "float post repair"; a few people have done it and have various experiences. The best repairs seem to involve accurately drilling holes for a support rod PLUS using epoxy (e.g. J.B. Weld). Epoxy alone has been known to release over time with constant exposure to vibrations and gasoline. You can post to the "parts wanted" section for BS32 carb bodies, and can use those from GS550s or GS650s of the appropriate years (80-82, probably 83 also from a GS650 but NOT an 83+ 550). If you buy a GS650 carb body you'll just have to replace with your stock jets. Mind that each carb body is specific to their positions - not interchangeable. You must replace a #4 with another #4.

If you've already boogered the screws trying to get the carbs apart, just make a slot with a dremel and use a flat blade. Don't forget that heat and REAL penetrating oil (not WD40) is your friend.

The stock brass jets don't really get "worn" from gravity-fed gasoline going through them, so a good cleaning is all that you need. Just replace the rubber o-rings. Aftermarket parts vary in quality of machining, but are certainly not going to be better than the old stock parts after a cleaning. Bonus! You've got those so you don't have to pay for them.

I'm wondering if the smoking from #1 pipe is oil from your leak on the hot pipe. If your bolt is missing from that triangular section that sticks out of the front of the head and cylinders between the #2 and #3 headers, then that's probably going to require a head gasket replacement (plus a base gasket replacement) to repair. probably release of clamping force and squirmy cam chain tunnel o-ring letting just a little oil seep through.