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resealing cases with threebond question

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    resealing cases with threebond question

    Hey,

    1980 GS 550

    How much threebond 1184 should I use when I'm resealing my cases? A thin bead? Huge globs?

    Also, how much do I need to clean/polish/whatever the contact patches that will be mated?

    Anyone have any photo ref or threads where this is explained? I tried search.

    Thanks
    -Ege

    #2
    A thin bead should be all you need, maybe 1/8" thick or even less. The cases are matched surfaces. Put it this way: one tube is known to go a few (3 or 4) cases.

    Polish should not be needed, a slight roughness in the surface is not a problem. Surface should be clean as in free of oil/grease, try to get most of the old bond off.
    Last edited by Guest; 06-02-2013, 08:22 AM.

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      #3
      the mating surfaces should be spotless and degreased. you do not want a "bead" of sealer, you need to smear it on the surface, making sure it covers all the area with no gaps.
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

      Comment


        #4
        Actually the 1207B is whats recommended for case sealing. Took me almost 2 months to get some from Suzuki..back order issue.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          This video illustrates what Agemax has explained (spotless/degreased, smear it ... no bead and no gaps):

          Applying Hondabond 4 to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves prior to pulling the two halves of the crankcase together over the crankshaft.


          No the guy in the video is not Agemax ... well I don't think so.
          2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer (it's gone)
          1985 Suzuki Madura GV1200
          2 X 1980 Suzuki GSX1100ETs (next project
          s)

          Comment


            #6
            I used the 1207B, clean the surface with mineral spirits and apply a thin bead. Make sure to keep it off the bearing surfaces and out of the oil passages. Did you take those gears off the shafts and check them thoroughly?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by quexpress View Post
              This video illustrates what Agemax has explained (spotless/degreased, smear it ... no bead and no gaps):

              Applying Hondabond 4 to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves prior to pulling the two halves of the crankcase together over the crankshaft.


              No the guy in the video is not Agemax ... well I don't think so.
              nope, defo not me, the worktop is too tidy for me

              i have always used blue Hylomar for crankcases. never had a problem with it yet.
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Agemax View Post
                nope, defo not me, the worktop is too tidy for me
                I would have never noticed ... but must admit that the accent gave me a good idea!

                i have always used blue Hylomar for crankcases. never had a problem with it yet.
                This?
                2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer (it's gone)
                1985 Suzuki Madura GV1200
                2 X 1980 Suzuki GSX1100ETs (next project
                s)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by quexpress View Post
                  I would have never noticed ... but must admit that the accent gave me a good idea!

                  This?
                  yep, thats the stuff i use.
                  1978 GS1085.

                  Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    There is also Yamabond and Hondabond, usually available at your local dealers. Pretty sure they are made by Threebond.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I think the main thing is not to use too much of whatever you use. The excess which oozes out of the joint into the inside can make its way into the clutch, oil passages, ect.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                        There is also Yamabond and Hondabond, usually available at your local dealers. Pretty sure they are made by Threebond.
                        I've been told quite a while ago that Suzukibond, Yamabond, Hondabond and Threebond are all the same.
                        Is this true? I can't prove it but can confirm that I have used Yamabond with success.
                        2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer (it's gone)
                        1985 Suzuki Madura GV1200
                        2 X 1980 Suzuki GSX1100ETs (next project
                        s)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by matt1100 View Post
                          I think the main thing is not to use too much of whatever you use. The excess which oozes out of the joint into the inside can make its way into the clutch, oil passages, ect.
                          exactly, you will be surprised how much a "bead" will squish out over the sides. these are mated surfaces so barring any damage caused by prying apart etc. they are pretty much flush fitting.

                          even a smear will squish out a tiny bit
                          1978 GS1085.

                          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks guys.

                            So will the 1184 not work? I've already purchased a tube but clearly I can wait for the 1207B to arrive if that's definitely better.

                            Any techniques for making sure the cases seal properly? I tried to dry-fit the cases back together just to make sure they would fit snuggly, and it looks like they don't want to mate without leaving a tiny gap. The guy in that youtube video seems to be using a case-mating tool, but is there such a thing for horizontally split cases?


                            Almarconi, the pliers needed to check those gears are in the mail right now. Thanks




                            -Ege
                            Last edited by Guest; 06-09-2013, 07:24 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Nearly anything should work as the cases should fit together so well it is barely even necessary to use a sealant. When you torque those 50 (or however many) bolts/nuts that gap should disappear unless the cases are damaged somehow or you have something assembled incorrectly. I used that grey, "high torque" permatex stuff from the auto parts store as directed.

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