blue/white smoke out of exhaust

[GateKeeper]

Third one won't upload to photobucket, it keeps on crapping out right at the end.

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[tkent02]

What's on the video?

[GateKeeper]

similar to the first 2 that are already posted, click on the pics above it will start the video

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[earlfor]

OK here are 2 videos, I am trying to get the 3rd one up as well...

click on the picture to start the video.....

....

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OK then, I think I know what the problem is, why the oil smoke, why it will not idle well and why it is hard to start.

First off, for whatever reason, I think you did have too much oil in the crankcase. I believe you have taken care of that part. Next, it is hard to start, idles poorly and is blowing smoke out the left exhaust because your #1 carb is HORRIBLY out of synch and barely flowing any fuel. You got NO vacuum on #1. Put a set of vacuum gauges on the bike and turn the adjuster between the 1 and 2 carbs until #1 and #2 carbs show the same vacuum.

Then turn the adjuster between 3 and 4 carbs until 3 and 4 show the same vacuum as each other. Now, to finish the balance. turn the adjuster between 2 and 3 carb and that will balance 1,2 as a pair to 3,4 as a pair.
that adjuster balances pairs.

The fuel mixture on your #1 cylinder is very weak, but the amount of oil in the cylinder is normal, so you get smoke instead of combustion.

It is possible your problem is ignition on #1, but 1 and 4 are the same electrically, so they usually both go out.

I'm pretty sure you have a carb synch/balance problem.

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the feedback....

I did drain out some oil, it's now between the 2 lines on the sight glass, well on the higher side, but should be OK.

I wonder why it would be out of sync, this is a puzzle....for sure

I had Spyug over way back when, and we syncd the carbs perfectly, he brought over his morgan carb tune device, and we had even readings across all 4....I couldn't have asked for a better reading.

I will get his carb tune, and do it again, good thing the weekend is coming up, but I still need to get to work, I guess the bike is parked and will have to use the car....

I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?

Well I will go through it all once again, and see if it gets any better...

Thanks once again....

Cheers

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[tkent02]

I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?



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What did you do since then to screw up the synch? Adjust valves?

I can't see the videos, but if it is badly out of synch, pulling the plug off just means #1 is so out of synch it isn't contributing anything to the engine idling, #4 is doing more of the work. Disabling #1 does nothing, disabling #4 kills the engine. It does not mean a coil or ignition problem.

[GateKeeper]

nothing has been done, other than riding it most days to work and back.

vlaves were checked prior to carb sync...

the only thing done, was a bloody oil change, I should have left well enough alone...LOL


why can't you see the video, they are on photobucket, is it something on my end ?

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[earlfor]

Thanks for the feedback....

I did drain out some oil, it's now between the 2 lines on the sight glass, well on the higher side, but should be OK.

I wonder why it would be out of sync, this is a puzzle....for sure

I had Spyug over way back when, and we syncd the carbs perfectly, he brought over his morgan carb tune device, and we had even readings across all 4....I couldn't have asked for a better reading.

I will get his carb tune, and do it again, good thing the weekend is coming up, but I still need to get to work, I guess the bike is parked and will have to use the car....

I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?

Well I will go through it all once again, and see if it gets any better...

Thanks once again....

Cheers

.

The bike is not running on #1, so pulling that plug lead off will have no effect. #4 is drawing a lot of vacuum, more than #3, so the bike is running primarily on #4, so pulling that lead will cause the engine to die.

Listening to the bike run. #1 is not running, #2 has too much vacuum, #3 doesn't have enough vacuum and #4 has too much.

1 and 2 are a carb pair, 3 and 4 are a carb pair. Ignition pairs are 1 and 4 for the left coil and 2,3 for the right coil. The sequence of your problem indicates a carb problem. You definitely do not have a bad coil. It is possible you have a bad wire to spark plug cap connection on #1, but that is easy to check by removing the plug, putting the lead back on it and grounding the base to the engine fins to see if there is spark. I would be surprised if it is a electrical problem.

[GateKeeper]

The bike is not running on #1, so pulling that plug lead off will have no effect. #4 is drawing a lot of vacuum, more than #3, so the bike is running primarily on #4, so pulling that lead will cause the engine to die.

Listening to the bike run. #1 is not running, #2 has too much vacuum, #3 doesn't have enough vacuum and #4 has too much.

1 and 2 are a carb pair, 3 and 4 are a carb pair. Ignition pairs are 1 and 4 for the left coil and 2,3 for the right coil. The sequence of your problem indicates a carb problem. You definitely do not have a bad coil. It is possible you have a bad wire to spark plug cap connection on #1, but that is easy to check by removing the plug, putting the lead back on it and grounding the base to the engine fins to see if there is spark. I would be surprised if it is a electrical problem.

OK, back to syncing carbs, not a problem, will get Spyug's carb tune and will get at it

I did remove the lead off of #1 got a different plug, turned on bike, and I do have spark, I also removed the plug in #1 and turned on the bike, had spark then as well, so it's safe to rule out an electrical problem.

back to the carbs I go.....

I just don't get it, as to why this has happened, but I guess it does, I will report my findings and let you all know if the carb sync resolves my issue....

Thanks again.....

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[earlfor]

I just don't get it, as to why this has happened, but I guess it does, I will report my findings and let you all know if the carb sync resolves my issue....

Thanks again.....

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Perhaps vibration caused adjustment to change??? Just guessing.

[earlfor]

Well, at least doing a carb synch will only cost you time and not money.

[cableguy]

This is pure BS. Oil pressure is not dependant on oil quantity, unless there isn't any.

Oil coming through the rings is not dependant on oil pressure anyway, there is no oil pressure being pumped to the rings. Oil is pumped as far as the engine bearings, and thats it.

So I eat crow on that one. After a bit of more focused research I have to concur that oil pressure is not dictated by oil volume. It is possible to add so much that it foams in the crankcase and can't be pumped, causing (ironically) a drop in pressure. That clearly isn't the problem here though.

[eil]

I have a similar issue, minus the smoke coming out of the exhaust... my #1 cylinder isn't firing despite having (some) spark and clean carbs. Pulling the #1 plug boot does nothing to the engine, but pulling #4 stalls it. I'm in the midst of doing the coil relay mod. Perhaps I just need a good carb sync as well? I'm not sure when I'll have the funds to buy the Morgan Carbtune, though.

While reading the carb section in the FSM for my bike, I noticed that they called for (red?) loctite on the throttle sync adjuster screws and lock nuts. If you didn't do that, maybe yours have worked themselves loose?

[earlfor]

I have a similar issue, minus the smoke coming out of the exhaust... my #1 cylinder isn't firing despite having (some) spark and clean carbs. Pulling the #1 plug boot does nothing to the engine, but pulling #4 stalls it. I'm in the midst of doing the coil relay mod. Perhaps I just need a good carb sync as well? I'm not sure when I'll have the funds to buy the Morgan Carbtune, though.

While reading the carb section in the FSM for my bike, I noticed that they called for (red?) loctite on the throttle sync adjuster screws and lock nuts. If you didn't do that, maybe yours have worked themselves loose?

I've never used Loctite on the adjustment screws. However, Blue would be more than strong enough. Red is meant for setting studs or things you really don't intend to ever be moving again. Don't use RED on those adjustment screws. I think there would be a excellent chance of stripping the screw threads before the Loctite would break loose.

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the tips guys, I do have some blue Loctite, but I don't know if I will use it or not....

Once the carb tune is hooked up, I will know if there is a sync problem and proceed from there....

I was going to go to work, but didn't trust the bike, and not sure if I should even be riding it the way it is, I don't want to screw anything up worse than what it is, or worse yet, stall out somewhere and have to walk home......

so the bike is parked, and I stayed home, not really all that bad come to think of it....LOL

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