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1983 1100 head gasket retorque

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    1983 1100 head gasket retorque

    How many miles should I put on my new motor before I retorque the
    cyl head gasket.
    Should the engine be warm or cold.

    #2
    Do it once you get the engine hot and up to .,go through the pattern loosening and retorquing one at a time temperature 50-100 miles.
    Drain oil reset valves and retorqued head while stone cold

    Comment


      #3
      so you loosen them first then retorque them not just go in there and torque them down from where they are.?
      29 ft pounds?

      Comment


        #4
        Do them in the order specified in the SUZUKI shop manual, 1 thru 12, one at a time. Starting with #1, back the nut off 1/2 turn & then re-torque. Continue on with the rest. Ray.

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          #5
          I back off the nuts just enough to get them to turn, then go the other direction to tighten. Depending on the gaskets you used, the head may have to be retorqued once, or more than one time before it stops compressing. Jim's 100 mile suggestion is reasonable, then again after a couple hundred more miles and so forth. As soon as you notice there is no more torque fall-off, you can stop for a while.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            Sorry for my garbled post, iPhone!!!!

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              #7
              thanks I will do it that way.
              I do have a small oil leak coming off the front boy I hope it stops with the retorque.

              Comment


                #8
                Can you post a picture of the leak, please?

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                  #9
                  Did you change the o-rings on the two front head bolts?
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    o rings yes all new
                    Still not sure there's a leak only 90 mi on the bike I had the header (changed oil)
                    off that's when I noticed a little oil hanging off that front head bolt with a little blowing back.
                    So its time to recheck the valves and re torque the head.
                    leak will stop

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Street Fighter View Post
                      o rings yes all new
                      Still not sure there's a leak only 90 mi on the bike I had the header (changed oil)
                      off that's when I noticed a little oil hanging off that front head bolt with a little blowing back.
                      So its time to recheck the valves and re torque the head.
                      leak will stop
                      my 1166 does that also; I will check to see if it stopped as well.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        when I torque the head its hard to make them all the same most are 29ft lbs some went 29.5
                        one went 30.2
                        would you guys do them over and get them closer or leave them alone.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Street Fighter View Post
                          when I torque the head its hard to make them all the same most are 29ft lbs some went 29.5
                          one went 30.2
                          would you guys do them over and get them closer or leave them alone.
                          I think you are splitting hairs

                          The accuracy of a torque wrench is like +/-20% due to friction.

                          The key to good reading is to back off and then do a slow but continuous (movement) turn till the torque wrench clicks.

                          Don't stop and jerk because that will be inaccurate. The click should occur while you are still moving the wrench.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            no click it makes a sound and a buzz sorry I should have said it was a Snap on digital.
                            +/-5% very acc just had it calabrated

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Street Fighter View Post
                              no click it makes a sound and a buzz sorry I should have said it was a Snap on digital.
                              +/-5% very acc just had it calabrated
                              it is the friction between the bolt and the head that causes the uncertainty and how you use the wrench makes a big difference. You could have it calibrated to 1% and if you bounce the wrench the reading will be way off.

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