Clutch or tranny issue

[Guest]

Ok folks, got some noises the other day that i did not like so parked until fixed.

While riding home from work i noticed that every time i started from a stop sign or light when letting out the clutch i would get to the point where it would being to engage (lever halfway out) then at three quarters out i would be fully moving nad let it out the rest of the way. at that point it would do a small jump forward like the gear was not fully engaged at the point. at the same time i was hearing a new noise from the engine (a whirring/winding noise) when the gear is engaging. same noise once into 2nd. then gone at 3rd(or i just can't hear it then). from the threads i have researched on here the clutch might need some cleaning/work. but i am having a hard time finding work through about what to look for when i do open the clutch up (never done it before).

#2. i had the bike up on the center stand and was checking the clutch so started it up, held the clutch and put it into first. The tire started moving. i played with the clutch cable adjustments but nothing would work to have the tire sit there. each time i put it into gear it would give a a hard thud into gear. from neutral to 1st.

Please help.

Thanks

[chuck hahn]

The hard thud sounds pretty normal for when the tranny gear meshes. Have you checked the clutch hub bolt yet for tightness?

You may also have a worn bearing that goes down the center of the basket. You may need to remove the basket and inspect for wear on the shaft and the inside of the basket itself. Bearings too...inspect them.

[Agemax]

have you checked the clutch cable? make sure it is not frayed and binding inside the outer sheath.
also is the chain and sprockets in good condition,lubed and adjusted correctly?

these may or may not account for the grinding noise but certainly will not help with the gear change and smooth clutch disengagement

[Steve]

Having the rear wheel move with the bike on the centerstand is somewhat "normal".

There is enough drag through the clutch to move the rear wheel when it is unloaded, but will not be enough to move the bike with the wheel on the ground.

.

[chuck hahn]

While its apart, lay the steels on a piece of glass to check for flatness..shouldn't teeder from either side. Shouldn't be blued or otherwise look like they had been over heated either.

Also measure the fibers for wear specs.

Check the basket where the ears for the fibers fit in for grooves getting worn into them from the fibers. The grooves can cause the fibers to hang up and not release when you pull in the clutch lever.

[Big Red]

as I am at work i will look at the these things when i get home. The one thing i did notice and not mention.

When bike is off i pull in the clutch lever and i hear a nice clear Click when i hit the point that the clutch should be engaging.

also the noise in 1st and 2nd sounds like it is coming from the front right part of the engine.

Also is there a step by step for taking the clutch apart and putting it back together?????

Thanks Folks

[Steve]

When bike is off i pull in the clutch lever and i hear a nice clear Click when i hit the point that the clutch should be engaging.

I have always looked for silent operation of the clutch.

Are you saying that it clicks when you squeeze the lever or release it?

.

[chuck hahn]

Take out the six bolts that hold the pressure plate and springs on.

Remove the steels and fibers. Note the last one in the basket baqck is wired in..leave it alone.

Remove the clutch hub nut. Air impact works best. Hammer style impact is next best to get it loose.

Pull out on the basket and then push it back in. The center bearings should slide out a little so you can remove them..if not rewiggle the basket. Object is to get the bearings out a bit so you can remove them.

Remove the bearings..noting how they were in there!!!!!!!!!!

Next, remove the basket. You remove the bearings so theres some slop to get the gear on the back past the edge of the case.

Note there is a connector pin that meshes with the oil pump. When you reinstall the basket, youll wiggle it around and youll FEEL the basket click into the oil pump.

Once your positive the basket has engaged the pump, hold it in place and put on the locking washer and the clutch hub nut.

Take step by step pics as you go so you can refresh the memory as you reassemble it.

[chuck hahn]

OH...when I reinstall the basket, I get the gear past the edge of the cases and then reinsert the center bearings. This is the easiest way I found with minimal wrestling. Then seat it up with the oil pump...etc etc.

[Big Red]

I have always looked for silent operation of the clutch.

Are you saying that it clicks when you squeeze the lever or release it?

.

Both when you pull it in and let it out.

[chuck hahn]

Clutch pushrod ends may be worn or not seating properly at the clutch actuator end or at the release bearing end. Release bearing may be going bad too. That's the major things I can think of that may be hanging up as you actuate the lever.

[Big Red]

Ok so i opened up the clutch (first time ever). I took some photos. took the springs out out nothing looked worn. took the cover off and plates out everything looked clean and good then i noticed what i think is the hub nut(?) in the middle had some jiggle to it. i do not have a socket big enough for it yet. so i just look around the basket and gear and such nothing looks worn at all while i am was looking i noticed that the rim(?) on one side of the hub nut was bent up so i straightened it out flat again with a screw driver. and like magic the nut is now not moving at all. so it was getting late so i put it all together needed to make a new gasket since the one on there snapped when taking the cover off.

so got it aback together will be testing tonight. But i think i saw a small oil leak for the gasket tonight so i might need to take it off again to fix the leak.

But plates are all flat and and everything looks (compared to online photos) brand new.

Thanks

[Agemax]

the washer behind the hub nut is supposed to be bent up. it is used to prevent (supposedly) the nut from coming loose. you should retorque the main hub nut and then bend the tab washer up against one of the flats on the nut

[GateKeeper]

Ok so i opened up the clutch (first time ever). I took some photos. took the springs out out nothing looked worn. took the cover off and plates out everything looked clean and good then i noticed what i think is the hub nut(?) in the middle had some jiggle to it. i do not have a socket big enough for it yet. so i just look around the basket and gear and such nothing looks worn at all while i am was looking i noticed that the rim(?) on one side of the hub nut was bent up so i straightened it out flat again with a screw driver. and like magic the nut is now not moving at all. so it was getting late so i put it all together needed to make a new gasket since the one on there snapped when taking the cover off.

so got it aback together will be testing tonight. But i think i saw a small oil leak for the gasket tonight so i might need to take it off again to fix the leak.

But plates are all flat and and everything looks (compared to online photos) brand new.

Thanks

so you straightened out the flat washer, now you will have to go back and push it back down the way you found it, the reason for it being pushed down like that is to lock the nut in place so that is has less chance of un-screwing itself off....

This of course is true if I understood what you wrote.

[Big Red]

damn it. i will do that tonight. as i said it was my first time even looking at the inside of a clutch. next anyone know what size socket i need for the hub nut? as i will need to borrow something as i do not have anything close to that big.