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    base gasket

    searched but couldnt find anything, should I use gasket cement or not?
    -Mark
    Boston, MA
    Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
    sigpic
    1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

    #2
    No, you dont need it
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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      #3
      Much appreciated. I didnt think so as i couldnt find anything here of the manual. But bad news... I broke #1&4 #2 rings..... I have the old ones.... Was thinking of reusing... Not a good idea.... So ****ed right now... Probably cant just buy them im assuming at this point....
      Last edited by mvalenti; 08-09-2013, 08:34 PM.
      -Mark
      Boston, MA
      Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
      sigpic
      1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

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        #4
        Nope, you shouldn't assume...

        OEM piston ring sets are still available for the GS850.

        Most online fiches are a little screwed up, but the standard size rings are part number 12140-45121 and are available for $25 - $30 per set (one set fits one piston) from your favorite source for Suzuki parts. They're in the crankshaft fiche for some reason.

        If you remove the pistons, make sure you install new circlips.
        Last edited by bwringer; 08-10-2013, 07:54 AM.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

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          #5
          Use the Permatex copper aerosol, coat both sides- I use it on all engine gaskets and have never had one fail.

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            #6
            Suzuki gaskets are designed to go on dry. They knew what they were doing, even back then.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Badooka View Post
              Use the Permatex copper aerosol, coat both sides- I use it on all engine gaskets and have never had one fail.
              On the off chance one has to crack a case or cover open, how easy is it to remove the gasket once sprayed with the Permatex Copper?

              Does it adhere to the metal?

              Is it a thin layer that creates a "dry" skin, or a thicker layer that oozes when compressed?
              '83 GS650G
              '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

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                #8
                I'll admit to using copper coat on both sides of a base gasket. There are two camps on this. Most of the controversy probably stems from comparing apples to oranges. A very well machined surface does not need anything to fill in the grooves. On a rougher surface some added filler is nice and probably warranted.

                I remember researching surface smoothness specs for an MLS gasket and the best that I could come up with is that the surface needed to be "pretty". In other words I was unsuccessful in determining a spec to give to a machinist.

                I have been using composite head gaskets and I think I have put them on dry.

                Buy Permatex 80697 Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant, 9 oz. net Aerosol Can , Orange: Gasket - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases


                some threads I found on the subject



                I'm replacing the rear cyl head gasket on my 92 FXR, somone recommended using the product copper coat on the SE metal gasket I'm using. My first time hearing of this, what's you'z guys experience with this shit? Worth it? Also, if I replace the head gasket without replacing the base gasket I'll be kicking myself right? The

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                  #9
                  I have replaced head and base gaskets and have never used any kind of sealant. None of them leaked.
                  Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                  I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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                    #10
                    +1, Done it twice dry with OEM gaskets top and bottom and no leaks...

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                      #11
                      It's worth the effort and peace of mind to use the Permatex, especially on 7-8K dollar motors. It goes on wet and cures dry.
                      It will aid in the removal of the gaskets. I build a lot of motors. Not just blowing smoke.
                      It also gives extra integrity to the gasket making it last longer and seal better.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by BigD_83 View Post
                        On the off chance one has to crack a case or cover open, how easy is it to remove the gasket once sprayed with the Permatex Copper?

                        Does it adhere to the metal?

                        Is it a thin layer that creates a "dry" skin, or a thicker layer that oozes when compressed?
                        It goes on wet and will dry to the touch- will not ooze-
                        It's worth the money and then some. Unless one likes tearing into heads and the like to chase leaks.

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