Sheared the Starter Clutch Bolts Again

[ptexotik]

Why? Just wondering because that had sounded like a very good idea to me and I had intended on doing that.
However I have no experience with these starter clutch bolts ... yet.

just overkill imo.
and for these two surfaces to be 'mated' together as designed, I wouldn't be confident that simply going to bigger holes (yes, bigger bolts too I get it) would really address the initial problem. (?)
Having them welded ... I'd be less worried about any possible imbalances of material lost / added.
plus, I've had the weld done ... and it's great peace of mind

[Agemax]

just overkill imo.
and for these two surfaces to be 'mated' together as designed, I wouldn't be confident that simply going to bigger holes (yes, bigger bolts too I get it) would really address the initial problem. (?)
Having them welded ... I'd be less worried about any possible imbalances of material lost / added.
plus, I've had the weld done ... and it's great peace of mind

3 larger bolts would still be perfectly in balance, surely you would need the rotor REbalanced after welding as all 3 welds would not be exactly the same?

[850 Combat]

As near as I can determine, SAE grades don't appear to cover metric.

[blowerbike]

change your riding habits and make sure your parts are in 100% good condition.
most starter clutches break with high rev/closed throttle and heavy down shifts.
the clunking on the start up is the result after the S/C is already damaged.

[KiwiDes]

change your riding habits and make sure your parts are in 100% good condition.
most starter clutches break with high rev/closed throttle and heavy down shifts.
the clunking on the start up is the result after the S/C is already damaged.

Dredging up an old thread, but I,ve sheared my starter clutch bolts twice in quick succession.This is on my 1135 race bike, is welding them the best option?

[rapidray]

Dredging up an old thread, but I,ve sheared my starter clutch bolts twice in quick succession.This is on my 1135 race bike, is welding them the best option?

Yes.
Ray.

[RGM]

Just had my starter clutch fail and it ended up taking out the starter armature.One of the problems with the starter clutch bolts is that there should be no threads were it goes through the clutch, only threads where it screws into the rotor. With aircraft only 1 thread is allowed in mating surfaces, this is called the grip of the bolt. To buy metric bolts with a 1/4" grip you would need to buy a longer bolt and then cut it down.

[blowerbike]

threads or no threads the problem will still exist.

[earlfor]

I had that problem with my 1150E. My problem was caused by a leaking petcock that caused the engine to hydro lock when I was starting it.

[Carter Turk]

I'm on starter clutch number 6, not all new, but the last one was. Still experiencing "snatching" on start up, even spinning the engine first, before firing coils. I almost believe the wiring harness is to blame and my electrical ineptness. More likely my ineptness. Maybe too many corroded connections and the extra loops Suzuki built into the wiring harness, I haven't changed yet, 21 years later.

[49er]

I had mine come lose on my 1135. The mating surfaces of the flywheel/rotor and the starter clutch weren't true. The rotor surface was bowed by .003 in, so I had it resurfaced. Fitted new 8.8 bolts and dowel pin with Loctite and torqued to stock specs. It has done 3,000 kms since, without further problems.

While the rotor was removed, I checked the condition and play in the needle roller assy that supports the starter gear ring. The clearance between the shaft and the needle roller seems excessive. I'm not sure whether there was wear present on the shaft or the needle roller was worn. There was no visible wear on the needle rollers, but I probably should have replaced it anyway.

These engines have a rolling idle due to the overlap effect of the stock Yoshi cams. Mine still snatches slightly at idle when the choke is fully released. I think it's the result of the overlap on the cams and excessive clearance between the rotor shaft and the starter gear needle roller bearing.