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    Chain tensioner re build question.

    Hello

    I rebuilt the tensioner according the the tutorial and every thing went smoothly it seems. I arrived at the point of releasing the set screw. The tutorial states half a turn or so and I should hear the rod pop out to press against blade. I did not hear any thing. Should I remove it from the bike and check it again. I did a complete rebuild and it all moved freely and was free of any burring when I put it all back together.

    What would other members here do? Did you all hear it pop back out?

    Thanks

    #2
    It's pretty muffled, since it's buried in the engine, so you may or may not actually hear anything when you release the setscrew.

    You should see the knurled knob jump, though.

    One possibility is that the engine is in a position where the back run of the cam chain is tight against the tensioner. In that case, gently turn the engine forward using the 19mm hex under the timing cover, and you'll see the knob on the tensioner move as it takes up the slack.

    And finally, it's also possible to assemble the tensioner with the spring tension in the wrong direction. Make sure you haven't done this.
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      #3
      I recommend double checking your cam timing any time the tensioner has been removed. Mistimed cams can result in bent valves, so spending a little extra time to be sure nothing bad has happened is worth the effort in my opinion.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

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        #4
        Originally posted by rockhammer View Post
        Hello

        What would other members here do? Did you all hear it pop back out?

        Thanks
        I heard a distinct 'click' when releasing set screw. just my 2c

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          I recommend double checking your cam timing any time the tensioner has been removed. Mistimed cams can result in bent valves, so spending a little extra time to be sure nothing bad has happened is worth the effort in my opinion.
          The fun part of checking cam timing on an 850 is that you have to remove the idler sprocket to be able to count the pins properly.

          It's not all that hard, it just adds a few minutes to the job.

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          Comment


            #6
            I did make sure to get the bike top dead center which was easy given the window and the line with a t next to it. I will remove and check timing to be sure. Thanks

            Comment


              #7
              Good time to double check those valve shims too.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                Good time to double check those valve shims too.

                Yes I just completed that right before the vac boots, rings and tensioner. The tensioner is the last thing before I rebuild and clean carbs. But I am held up on tensioner right now. Or timing now I guess.

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