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stuiec
Ok, been awhile, but I finally got to this issue. I took the clutch apart and inspected everything, all was within spec. I serviced the cam chain tensioner, seems good too. So now I'm headed for the starter clutch. When I had it running, doing the block of wood-stethoscope method, the sound was loudest on the left side, near and on the generator cover. Here is what I am seeing so far......is this gear supposed to have this much play? (click for video)
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stuiec
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stuiec
Thanks guys, I'll pull the flywheel and have a look. Which leads me to my next question, and again, I have been searching the forum, just can't narrow it down. In the shop manual for this bike, I'm told to use the -suzuki parts # here- special tool, in this case, a slide hammer inserted into the other suzuki tool that threads onto the male (I measured 30mm), thread on the outside of the hub of the flywheel.
Nobody here seems to be posting about using this method, but I cannot whittle it down to a decisive option to go another way, as I haven't found anyone doing the same thing to the same model bike. Peering down the bore through the flywheel, it appears to me that there is no change in thread diameter or pitch, all the way down to where things taper in to a point in the end of the crank-shaft.
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GSX1000E
MotionPro makes many of those tools but some of these models only need a bolt that goes in the center to pop the rotor off. Not sure about your model.
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stuiec
Originally posted by GSX1000E View PostMotionPro makes many of those tools but some of these models only need a bolt that goes in the center to pop the rotor off. Not sure about your model.
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stuiec
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Is there a factory service manual for your bike on BassCliff's site?1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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your rotor should push off with a bolt as i assume you have a bolt that has to be removed to let you see the threads in the rotor itself.
this as apposed to a nut having to be removed as on large GS models.
FYI
the smaller GS's are not prone to starter clutch failures and there should be some side movement in the large gear as it only turns when you start your engine.
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Originally posted by stuiec View PostThat's what I've found. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all I need when ordering one, is the diameter of the male thread, and the diameter of the inside thread + length? I'm just a little wishy washy about it being that I've read that alot of guys end up with the wrong size.
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stuiec
Originally posted by Big T View PostIs there a factory service manual for your bike on BassCliff's site?
Originally posted by blowerbike View Postyour rotor should push off with a bolt as i assume you have a bolt that has to be removed to let you see the threads in the rotor itself.
this as apposed to a nut having to be removed as on large GS models.
FYI
the smaller GS's are not prone to starter clutch failures and there should be some side movement in the large gear as it only turns when you start your engine.
Is there anywhere I might find a spec on how much side to side movement the large gear ought to have? It does not seem worn out, it slides cleanly on the shaft without wobble.
Originally posted by posplayr View PostOn some bikes like the 81 gs750e the swing arm bolt will work
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stuiec
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