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Another flywheel removal question...

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    #16
    Use a 1/2 drive air impact, comes right off.

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      #17
      I suppose... Maybe in just over thinking about it. I made the tool anyway.
      My Motorcycles:
      22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
      22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
      82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
      81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
      79 1000e (all original)
      82 850g (all original)
      80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

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        #18
        the 82 1100g I have sitting in pieces does have a nut. it needs the tool to remove.

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          #19
          Originally posted by TeamDar View Post
          I think that the 1100G shafties have the nut. (Hey Chuck, notice how I said "I think", so as not to spread false information and admit that there is a slim chance that I could be wrong?)
          that could be...been many many years ago.
          i remember having parts from the crank used on a chain drive crank so it must have been an 1100 shafty for the stroke to have been correct.
          chuck?
          chuck?
          poke poke from dar

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            #20
            when i went to remove the bolt, i put the bike in 5th gear and held the rear brake like some have suggested. tried to remove bolt, used considerable effort and all i did was turn the engine over, rear wheel not moving.. would that mean my clutch pack is weak? even though i did use considerable force and a long ratchet? anyways, i just put a 19mm socket and ratchet on other end of crank and rotor bolt came right off.

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              #21
              Originally posted by blacksmoke611 View Post
              when i went to remove the bolt, i put the bike in 5th gear and held the rear brake like some have suggested. tried to remove bolt, used considerable effort and all i did was turn the engine over, rear wheel not moving.. would that mean my clutch pack is weak? even though i did use considerable force and a long ratchet? anyways, i just put a 19mm socket and ratchet on other end of crank and rotor bolt came right off.
              the in gear/hold brake method is BS.
              an impact is the only way to go.
              your clutch is probably fine.
              also if holding the 19mm on the ign. trigger be aware that you can twist the ears off of it.
              it is not made to hold much if any pressure.
              the 19mm hex engages into 2 very small ears on the timing advancer.
              ***CAUTION***

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                #22
                This is the safe way to go:

                You described this one -- it's for the exterior threads. These guys get the job done without any worries of damaging your crank & is what I used about a year ago (borrowed the tool locally). I wouldn't mess around.

                Good price -- these are typically $60 or so. There are other makes & other retailers that carry pretty much the same tool.
                and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
                __________________________________________________ ______________________
                2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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                  #23
                  I think I paid twice that.
                  sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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                    #24
                    Cool! Thanks for the advice. I think I will get the external thread puller better safe then sorry..
                    Blower bike. If using the 19 mm on the ignition trigger is not recommended, how do you go about torquing the bolt back on the crank?

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                      #25
                      An impact gun takes it off...an impact gun puts it on.

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