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Clutch Adjustment Procedure

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    #16
    So I wasn't able to move the clutch arm counterclockwise even with the hollow screw and the lever adjustments all the way in, so what I did was squeeze the clutch, remove the arm, release the clutch, and replace the arm. In this way I was able to "walk" the clutch arm over 3 notches! It's not slipping now, or is it stalling in 1st with the brakes engaged.

    The clutch lever still feels a little "loose" for my taste, but I think I can adjust it from here.

    Something I noticed that I didn't know before: The arm will move if it isn't tightened down. I made a mark with a magic marker to (visually) see how far I can move it over, and it would slide back if I didn't tighten the screw.


    Thank You All for the help. This forum is one of the best communities I have ever had the pleasure of being part of.

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      #17
      Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
      chef, are you sure clockwise is the correct direction? Unless I am mistaken, it looks like counter clockwise would give him more of what he wants.

      You're right!
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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