The reality is you only need two gauges to do a successful valve adjustment. You'll need two similar to the ones you just referred to. If the .038mm wont go through, then you can consider it too tight. If the .08mm goes through with no resistance, you're too loose. The problem you'll run into is when you're close to the lower spec and the next shim puts your over. You won't know how much over. .09mm may be OK but 1.1mm would be a little too loose. IMHO
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
The reality is you only need two gauges to do a successful valve adjustment. You'll need two similar to the ones you just referred to. If the .038mm wont go through, then you can consider it too tight. If the .08mm goes through with no resistance, you're too loose. The problem you'll run into is when you're close to the lower spec and the next shim puts your over. You won't know how much over. .09mm may be OK but 1.1mm would be a little too loose. IMHOhttp://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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Seaking
Gentlemen, THANK you.. (shaking head) I knew something was amiss and not making clear sense.. Now it does.. dang feeler gauge.. blargh!! My first priority will be to go out and get the proper tool.. and toss this one out..
And now the mystery of why the shim in the bucket is important when turning the engine.. I was reading an article where a gent asked why that was bad and no one gave him the answer.. apparently he had ALL the shims removed from his engine when he did this.. ouch
I recieved the shim spreadsheet via email and will go over the instructions on it carefully to dutyfully record the information..
Again my thanks for your expertise and patience.. it is much appreciated.
Cheers!
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Seaking
Shims arrived, valve adjustment complete...
The sled dogs delivered the mail today with 4 shims to finialize my valve adjustments. Now everything is done.. measured trice, finally. The spreadsheet really does help. And a BIG thanks to the shim club.
I'll soon be cleaning off the rest of the old gasket off the engine (being careful not to nick the metal) so that I can install the new gasket and valve cover so that I can do a compression test.
I need to find a way to clear the old debris from inside the valve area.. a few little bits found their way there that I can't reach with tweezers etc.. any advice or suggestions?
Carbs and exhaust are off the bike at the moment, is there still a requirement to hold the throttle to wide open position?
Many thanks to those who were patient and helpful along the way. Much appreciated as always.
CheersLast edited by Guest; 11-25-2013, 09:22 PM.
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Oil-dampened (not soaked) cotton swabs are handy for picking bits of gasket material out of that area-sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
'58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
'67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
'71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
'66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
'73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
'78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
'81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
'81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
'82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current
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Seaking
Originally posted by recycled64 View PostOil-dampened (not soaked) cotton swabs are handy for picking bits of gasket material out of that area-
I plan to do several oil / filter changes while tuning / starting the bike when everything is ready to roll before riding it. Hopefully that will also help
Cheers
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